LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 



Shelf. .-.XEM-JT 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
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FROM 



INDEPENDENCE HALL 



Around the World 



BY 

F. CARROLL BREWSTER, LL.D. 




zzyfrf &^l. 



PHILADELPHIA: 

THE LEVYTYPE COMPANY. 
i8 9 £ 



-/ 



1 ^Q< 



COPYRIGHT, 1895 
BY 

F. Carroll Brewster. 



levytype Company 

engravers 

and 

printers. 



PUBLISHER'S PREFACE. 



Nowadays, when the facilities of travel on the one 
hand, and of publication on the other, have made 
both a voyage around the globe and the printing of 
its narrative a common-place matter, there is need 
of something in the way of an apology for the bring- 
ing out of another book of this kind. 

Apart from the fact that Judge Brewster's notes 
of his journey, originally made only as private 
memoranda, have been published in response, prim- 
arily, to many requests to that end, a broader rea- 
son for the present work will be found by the reader 
in the freshness and simplicity of the voyager's 
recital, in its freedom from the conventional spirit 
of traveler's tales, in its pointed expression of un- 
biased views regarding the places and the peoples 
that he describes. The chronicle of Judge Brewster's 
journey is clearly that of a keen observer, whose 
considerations are the reflections of a disciplined 
mind, whose statements are those of an unprepos- 
sessed reporter, and whose narrative is presented as 
a simple and unvarnished tale. 

In collating the illustrations for this journey 



PUBLISHER'S PREFACE. 

around the world, the publishers have supplemented 
the pictures collected by Judge Brewster with a 
number selected from other sources, and desire here 
to note their indebtedness to Stuart Culin, Esq., 
Director of the Archaeological Department of the 
University of Pennsylvania, for copies of the 
ethnological illustrations of the Museum, and to 
Simon A. Stern, Esq., for the use of the extensive 
series of photographs collected by him on the occa- 
sion of his mission to the Chinese government. 

L. E. L. 

Philadelphia, June, 1805. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page 

Publisher's Preface V 

Author's Preface VII 

Introduction IX 

From San Francisco to Honolulu 16 

Kilauea 20 

Tables of Hawaiian Population . . . 21 

The Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum 21 

Water Supply of Honolulu 27 

From Honolulu to Yokohama 29 

Clock Time at Sea 31 

The Steerage 35 

Living in Japan 37 

Yokohama , 42 

Dai-Butsu . .- 43 

Tokio 56 

Importation of Words by the Japanese 60 

Japanese Railroads 60 

Inland Sea of Japan 61 

China 64 

Shanghai 64 

China's Trade with Japan 73 

Chinese Aversion to Hunting 76 

Absence of Mail Service in China 80 

Absence of Civilized Conveniences 81 

Peking 81 

Chinese Credulity 86 

Chinese Art of Healing . . . 86 

From Shanghai to Hong-Kong 88 

Canton 88 

Misrule in China ■ 89 

Chinese Fnglish 91 

Religion of China and Japan 92 

Buddhism 94 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

Page 

Real Estate in China 96 

Chinese Opium Dens 99 

From China to Calcutta 101 

Saigon . . • 101 

Singapore 107 

Colombo (Ceylon) 109 

The Magicians of the East 112 

Fruits, etc 118 

Kandy 122 

Adam's Peak 125 

Across India 127 

Calcutta 127 

Benares 129 

Lucknow 136 

Residency of Lucknow , 140 

Cawnpore 143 

Agra 146 

Taj-Mahal 148 

Delhi 150 

The Kootub Minar ■ ■ • ■ 153 

Chronological List of Ruins at Delhi 158 

Jeypore 164 

Amber (Anibar) • 170 

Bombay 172 

The Royal Alfred Sailors' Home, Bombay 176 

The Caves of Elephanta 176 

Towers of Silence 178 

Pinjraroot 180 

The Cyclones 185 

Homeward Bound 186 

Suez 188 

Ismailia 191 

Port Said 191 

Candia 191 

Zante 191 

Historical Sketch of the Anglo-Indian Empire .... 192 



PREFACE. 

The narrative of a tour of the world should 
be written by one who combines the learning of 
the historian, the geographer, the astronomer, the 
statistician, the student of architecture, painting, 
statuary and all the arts. 

The work would then be worthy of the study of 
all men, for it w r ould edify, instruct, enlighten and 
delight the reader. 

Time should also be devoted to the journey, for 
the faithlul examination of every temple, mosque, 
tomb, gallery and object of research and of study. 

When the author of this brochure recollects 
that he possesses none of the mental qualifications 
above referred to, and that he could not devote the 
necessary time for the examination of places visited, 
he feels as if he owed most ample excuse for 

vii 



attempting to publish his reminiscences. The 
truth is his apology. He travelled in a hurry and 
wrote as opportunity permitted some hasty memo- 
randa of his journeys. He was requested to publish 
his manuscript, and he has not had time to re-write 
or to extend it. Such as it is, and with its many 
imperfections he reluctantly hands it to the printer. 
The journeys here described occupied four 
months and thirteen days. Deducting for a stay 
in California, four months may be said to represent 
the actual time employed. Continents, seas, oceans 
are crossed, and much is seen in such a span of 
days, but it leaves no time for thorough examina- 
tion or for needed rest. Egypt, Palestine, Turkey, 
Greece and all the important cities of Europe were 
omitted on this excursion and a feverish anxiety to 
return home pushed the traveller from Port Said to 
Brindisi, then across Italy, France, and the Atlantic 
to the United States. 



INTRODUCTION 




HE first man known to history as 
attempting to circumnavigate the 
■ orld was Ferdinand Magellan. He 
iled from San Lucar in 1519, went 
South America, passed through the 
raits to which he gave his name, 
id up the Pacific ocean to the Phil- 
>ine Islands. There he was unfor- 
mately killed in 1521, in a conflict 
with the natives. His vessel however 
returned in safety to Spain September 6, 1522, thus 
making the first voyage round the world. 

Sir Francis Drake is the next historical celebrity 
in this connection. He was the first Englishman 
to attempt a voyage around the world. He com- 
menced his celebrated expedition at 32 years of age. 
The best portrait of him extant pictures him as 
of middle height, with brown hair, high forehead, 
long grey eyes, small ears, and a long moustache 
and beard covering his mouth and chin. He is 
dressed in a loose dark shirt, with a belt around his 
waist. 



He sailed from Plymouth, England on the Pelican, 
of only 120 tons, November 15, 1577. He had with 
him four other vessels, one of fifty, one of thirty and 
two of eighty tons. His whole force consisted of 166 
men. The Pelican carried twenty guns. His desti- 
nation was unknown to his crew. Shortly after 
sailing, a storm overtook him, which compelled a 
return to Falmouth for repairs. He started again 
December 13, went to the Cape de Verde Islands; 
after robbing a few Spanish vessels, he sailed to South 
America. In this neighborhood one of his captains 
Doughty, deserted ; search was made for him, he 
was captured and transferred with his crew to the 
Pelican. Drake then proceeded to Patagonia, 
where Doughty was tried, condemned to death, and 
was beheaded. 

After three weeks of hardship the navigators 
found themselves in the Pacific. There remained 
only the Pelican, the Elizabeth and the thirty ton 
cutter. The cutter went down in a hurricane. 

The captain of the Elizabeth left Drake and 
reached England in the following June. Drake 
remained. He soon met an Indian fisherman who 
informed him of a galleon in the harbor of Valpa- 
raiso. The Pelican sailed alongside her prize, and 
surprised the Spanish seamen. Not caring to in- 
jure them, Drake seized their treasures. Silver of 
the value of four thousand ducats was transferred 



to the Pelican. Drake also robbed the " Cacafuego' 
which was laden with all the bullion of the 
season's mining, gold and jewels, on her way from 
the Isthmus. The full value of all his plunder 
remained a secret between Drake and the Queen. 

Near the coast of Mexico the Pelican plundered a 
Chinese vessel, and robbed the principal citizens of 
a Spanish settlement. In lower California a month 
was spent repairing the Pelican. April 16, 1579, 
Drake started north in hope of finding a northern 
passage. Before the summer w 7 as ended, England 
and Spain had learned of Drake's plunderings. 

Phillip wrote to England to be instantly in- 
formed of the pirates arrival, and requested the res- 
toration of the plunder and the punishment of the 
offender. He also sent ships to guard the straits of 
Magellan. Drake stopped at San Francisco, and se- 
cured the good graces of the Indians by presenting 
them with medicines and ointments. They be- 
lieved him to be a god, and offered sacrifice to him. 

During his stay he discovered the existence of 
gold. Setting sail again, he passed along the Java 
coast and came near being stranded. A change of 
wind brought his ship into deep water, and pro- 
ceeding westward he passed through the straits of 
Sunda, reaching Plymouth in October. Not having 
heard of Drake for eighteen months, the whole 
country rang with his praises. The Queen was de- 
lighted and received him with great honor. 



The Spanish Ambassador sent word to the Queen 
that unless restoration was made, immediate war 
must be expected. Fearing she might have to 
yield, she refused to allow the plunder to be regis- 
tered, and resolved to reserve a goodly portion for 
herself, for her favorites, and ten thousand pounds 
for Drake and his company. She sent Drake to 
Plymouth to take charge of the booty, and selected 
a magistrate on whom she could rely to inventory 
the cargo, allowing Drake time and opportunity for 
removing a great part of the plunder before regis- 
tration was made. 

On Drake's return to London, he was received 
with great favor, the Queen bestowing upon him 
the honor of knighthood. He was however cen- 
sured by men whose good opinion he valued, and 
he gave them handsome presents in the hope of 
changing this opposition. He presented a diamond 
cross with a crown set with enormous emeralds to 
the Queen. She wore this on New Year's day. 

Burghley and Sussex, to their honor be it said, 
would not accept the presents of the pirate. 

Captain Cook's name is known to every school 
boy. He made three successful voyages round the 
world. 

The first in 1768 was in a small ship, the "En- 
deavour," of only 370 tons. Diminutive as was 
this vessel she seems to have been a giantess when 



compared with the " Santa Maria " of Columbus, 
which was not over 100 tons. 

Cook reached Otaheite or Tahite, where he erected 
an observatory and made astronomical observations. 

From there he sailed in quest of the great conti- 
nent, then supposed to exist in the South Pacific, 
and reached the Islands of New Zealand. Owing 
to the hostility of the natives, he could not pene- 
trate to the interior, and contented himself with a 
voyage of six months around the coast. He then 
proceeded to Australia and sighted Botany Bay 
April 28th. From Australia he sailed to New 
Guinea and thence to Batavia, where his ship had 
to put in for repairs. 

He arrived in England June 11, 1771, was raised 
by the King to the rank of Captain, and was 
placed in command of the " Resolution, " a ship of 
462 tons, and a smaller ship called the "Adven- 
ture." He sailed from Plymouth July 13, 1772, to 
discover the great southern continent. He reached 
Madeira July 29, and touched the Cape of Good 
Hope. January 17, 1773 he sailed for New Zealand 
and returned to England July 30, 1774. He sailed 
from Nore June 25, 1776, cruised in the South 
Pacific, discovered the Sandwich Islands (named 
after the Earl of Sandwich) and reached America in 
March, 1778. Returning to winter in the Sandwich 



Islands, he discovered Hawaii, where he met his 
tragical death February 14, 1779. 

Many have supposed that Marco Polo sailed 
round the world. This is a mistake. He was a 
native of Venice. In April, 1271, at the age of 17; 
he travelled through Persia and Turkestan, and pass- 
ing across the great Gobi desert he reached Cathay 
(China). There he visited Kublai Khan at his 
summer palace in Shandu. He spent a year with 
the Khan, learned the language, and wore the Tar- 
tar costume. 

He became Envoy to the Khan, and at 23 was 
sent to the western and southern provinces. Among 
other places he visited Thibet, Nankin, Pekin, and 
spent considerable time in Kinsai, which was noted 
for its fine buildings and public baths, of which he 
found 4000 in the city. He described the women 
of Kinsai as "of angelic beauty." He returned to 
Kambalu, where he was welcomed and held in high 
favor by the Khan. Later, he was sent on another 
expedition to the Japanese Islands. He describes 
Ceylon as the loveliest island in the Eastern Seas. 
Here he saw the jagged mountain called "Adam's 
Peak" upon which is said to be the tomb of the 
founder of the Buddhist religion. 

As the Envoy of the Khan, he was admitted into 
the higher class of Hindoos, known as Brahmins. 
After travelling in the interior of India, he crossed 



the Indian Ocean toward the coast of Africa and 
proceeded to the great island of Madagascar, pass- 
ing through Zanzibar and Abyssinia. He then re- 
turned to Kambalu. Sixteen years had now passed 
since Marco had left his native city. His mission 
to Cathay had been accomplished. He reported 
that he had converted the Khan and many of his 
subjects to Christianity. Marco was 41 years of 
age when he returned to Venice. Soon after, he 
enlisted for the war between Genoa and Venice. 
He commanded a galley, fought bravely, but was 
captured. His brave commander, Dandola, killed 
himself rather than be carried a prisoner to Genoa. 
Marco was imprisoned and occupied the cell with 
a great scholar of Pisa. They became fast friends. 
While in prison, he wrote the thrilling story of his 
travels. Five months later, Marco's father, Nicolo, 
and his brother, Maffeo, visited him in prison. They 
offered a large sum as a ransom. Marco was re- 
leased. A year later, in 1299, he returned to Ven- 
ice. Shortly afterwards, he married Donata Lore- 
dano, the daughter of a nobleman. He died at the 
age of 70. His travels read like fairy tales. 



FROn SAN FRANCISCO (N. 37 47') 
To HONOLULU (N. 21 18 ) 



Distance, 2092 miles. 
Time, 6 days, 15 hours. 
Fare, 1st class, $100. 



Difference in Time : 
Philadelphia, 12 Noon. 
San Francisco, 9 A. M. 
Honolulu, 6.30 A. M. 




OYAGES on the Pacific are 
not marked by the number 
of vessels one generally 
sees in crossing the Atlan- 
tic. A steamer and a sailer 
were all the ships sighted in 
six days. A few flying-fish 
and birds hardly relieved the 
monotony. 

The entrance to the harbor 
of Honolulu is very pictur- 
esque, but it is narrow and dangerous. It is well 
marked by buoys. Very effective dredging has 
been done on the bar. 

The Hawaiian Republic consists of six large 
and two small islands ; in all, nearly 7000 square 
miles and 90,000 inhabitants. Honolulu, the capi- 
tal, contains a population of about 27,000. The 

16 



AROUND THE WOELD 17 

form of government is Republican. The streets of 
Honolulu are smooth and well laid out. A tram 
connects the centre of the town with the suburbs. 
There are some very fine buildings. The largest 
was formerly the royal palace. It is now the seat 
of government of the Republic. It is of grand 
proportions with Corinthian columns. There is a 
splendid hospital, a very large stone church, some 
smaller places of worship, including a Mormon 
chapel. You must add to these the post office, 
museum, municipal buildings and many attractive 
residences. The appearance, on the whole, is of a 
large country town with mountains at the side and 
in the rear. A drive of seven miles takes you to 
Pali (the cliff), which presents a picture of rare 
beauty. Standing upon a shelf of rock some 2000 
feet high, you see a perpendicular descent touching 
a valley of 1000 acres dotted with two villages and 
washed by the ocean. The effect is very grand. 
The Island is about sixteen miles on its longest line 
and was stated to be over sixty -four miles around. 
Tropical trees and plants abound. The date, cocoa- 
palm, sorghum, mango, guava, banyan, eucalyptus 
(called here kora), bananas, pine-apples, and other 
plants, with beautiful flowers, are seen in great pro- 
fusion . 

The history of these interesting islands, since their 
first discovery by Cook, is well known. The arrival 



18 



FROM INDEPENDENCE IIAJ.L 



of our missionaries in 1820 and 1823 was followed 
by the conversion of the Queen and of all the king- 
dom. 

Vancouver is credited with the introduction of 
cattle and of chickens. The best horses are brought 
from the United States. A splendid grey was 
quoted at $250. 

Subsequent to Vancouver's last visit and prior to 
the conquest 
by Kameha- 
meha, the 
h arbor o f 
Honolulu 
was discov- 
ered by Cap- 
tain Brown 
of the British 
ship Butter- 
worth. He 
called it Fair- 
haven. Sur- 
veys followed 
by the British and Russians. 

Aside from the conversion of the people to Chris- 
tianity, there have been several historical items of 
some interest in the life of this nation. The first 
was in 1843. The British Consul had complained 
to Lord George Paulet, commanding the " Carys- 




GOVERNMENT HOUSE. HONOLULU. 



AROUND THE WORLD 19 

fort," of outrages inflicted upon him and other 
subjects of her Majesty. A suit had been brought 
for a laundry bill and an attachment had been 
issued against certain property. For these and 
other wrongs Captain Paulet sent to the King six 
demands. The first of these was for the removal of 
the odious attachment. This was accompanied by 
a threat of bombardment to be carried into effect 
the next afternoon. 

The King meekly replied that he would comply, 
but under protest, and referred the whole question to 
her Majesty. But this only emboldened the Captain 
to present other demands, and the King in despair 
exclaiming that " he would not die piecemeal " and 
entering his solemn protest, ceded the islands to 
Great Britain, reserving his appeal to her Majesty. 
Captain Paulet assumed charge. But the Queen 
soon terminated the comedy. In a few months 
(July 26, 1843) Admiral Thomas arrived in H. M. 
S. Dublin. He immediately sought the King — 
restored the sovereignty and saluted the Hawaiian 
standard. Of course a feast was given. History 
records this interesting occasion in these words: 
" There were three long tables, one at the head run- 
" ning cross-wise. At this head table His Majesty 
"sat, on the ground, in native fashion, with the 
" Admiral upon his right and the other officers, 
"etc. . . . 



20 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

11 Of knives and forks there were not enough to go 
" round, and a very nimble use of the fingers was 
" made. . . . There was the finely baked pig, 
" the roasted dog and all the variety of the native 
" fish, flesh and fowl and fruits of the islands." 

The next chapter of interest records such recent 
events as to render notice of them almost unneces- 
sary. It stands alone in the history of the United 
States. The Queen sought in January, 1893, to 
break the constitution. Her ministers refused to aid 
her treason. The people peaceably deposed her. 
Our representative recognized the new Republic. 
Seventeen other governments followed suit. And 
then, to our sorrow, the U. S. President exerted every 
effort to restore this dethroned Queen. Our country 
was singularly saved from the reproach by the 
Queen herself who refused to be restored unless she 
could behead our citizens. 

Of the extinct volcano kilauea much has been 
written by Lady Brassey, Dr. Lyons and others. 

A new hotel stands almost on the brink of the 
crater. The vapors are utilized for baths, etc. The 
lava floor of the crater is crossed by visitors. It is 
said that it heaves occasionally and that in 1891 
there w T as a considerable change. 



AROUND THE WORLD 



21 



The Following Comparative Table of Nationality of Popu- 
lation of Hawaiian Islands in 1890 may be of Interest : 



NATIONALITY. 

Natives 

Half-castes 

Chinese 

Americans 

Hawaiian born 

Britons 

Portuguese 

Germans 

French 

Japanese 

Norwegian 

Other foreigners 

Polynesian 



of foreign parents 



1S90. 

34,436. 

6,186. 

15,301. 

1,928. 

7,495. 

1,344. 

8,602. 

1,434. 

70. 

12,360. 

227. 

419. 

588. 

89,990. 



Of the beknice pauahi bishop museum, W. 
T. Brigham, A. M., Curator, writes — "That it 
fulfills two public uses: it preserves in fitting 
monument the name of one honored and beloved in 
the community, and it also by its nature and con- 
tents adds dignity to the country at large. It was 
founded in 1889 by Hon. Charles R. Bishop, and 
placed in the custody of the Trustees of the 
Kamehameha Schools, with a sufficient endowment 
to insure its preservation, if not its growth. Ex- 
ternally it is a structure if not perfect architecturally, 
at least attractive, built of the very bones of the 
land, the durable lava blocks from one of the 



22 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

ancient flows that piled up the mountains of Oahu. 
Somewhat dark and sombre as this material is, it is 
closely covered by the delicate leaves and bright 
yellow blossoms of what may be called the ' Hono- 
lulu Ivy.' " 

Two ample doors in the central tower admit to a 
hallway, which, emptied of its ethnological treasures, 
would still claim the visitor's attention from the 
beauty of the native koa woodwork of the panelled 
wainscot and stairs. To the left opens the Kahili 
room, finished in white cedar and like the entrance 
hall, paved with encaustic tile and brick. On the 
other hand is the main room of the museum, above 
which and reached by the stairway is the picture 
gallery. So much for the general features of this 
fire-proof building. 

Here it is hoped to collect not only every article 
that may illustrate the ethnology of this group, but 
also every bird, fish, insect, shell, coral, plant, in 
short all that will show in an accurate and 
scientific as well as popular way, whatever of life 
the islands produce. This must be a work of time 
even with the assistance of all the friends of the 
museum, but already a beginning has been made, 
and experts in the various departments have prom- 
ised to name the specimens when collected, so that 
here in the Pacific may be as accurately named fish, 
shells, corals, etc., as can be found in any museum 
of Europe or America. 



AROUND THE WORLD 



23 



The kahilis head the list of what the museum 
has that is not to be found elsewhere, and it has 
seemed worth while to attempt to preserve these 
rather perishable emblems of royalty. There are 
forty-five of the large processional kahilis and more 
than sixty of the smaller fly-brushes. Some of 
these saw the birth of the Kamehameha Dynasty, 
others f o 1 - 
lowed the last 
son of Kame- 
hameha I. to 
the tomb, and 
the latest 
made were of 
pure white 
feathers to 
m ark the 
funeral pomp 
of the last of 
the Kameha- 
mehas, whose 
name this museum bears. In the midst of these 
impressive kahilis are the Hawaiian birds, and this 
collection contains many very choice specimens. In 
the same room are the Niihau mats, one of these 
being very old, once the property of Kamehameha 
I; another is very large, 14Jx3(H feet. All of 
them are interesting as a manufacture most credit- 




QUEEN STREET, HONOLULU. 



24: FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

able to Hawaiian industry, but fast becoming a 
lost art. 

Of the kapas the museum possesses more than 
35,000 square feet, but this immense surface conveys 
little idea of the great variety of texture, pattern 
and color. All the museums of Europe combined 
cannot equal this very remarkable collection, which 
fully sustains the reputation of Hawaiian kapas as 
the best in the world. In one case in the main 
room one can trace the manufacture of bark cloth 
from the strip of bark through every process to the 
finished product; and better still, examine the texture 
of this paper cloth in some 224 specimens placed 
like stained glass in the windows. 

In wooden bowls and dishes the museum is very 
rich, having many of admirable form made long be- 
fore wood-working machinery was introduced- 
These were the "services of plate" of the old kings 
and alii. The largest is a bowlnine feet in circum- 
ference while the smallest is a little bowl from which 
Queen Emma eat in childhood. Here are dishes 
for fish, roast pig and dog; finger bowls for washing 
at the feast; gourd bottles and cocoanut cups for 
drinking; small dishes for inamona, and in the 
midst of all these convivial implements to remind 
that there is an end to all feasting, like the mummy 
of the Egyptian banquet, is the great trough in 



AROUND THE WORLD 25 

which the body of a chief was dissected and his 
bones cleaned. 

The Hawaiians were great fishermen and this 
handicraft is well shown here. Nets of olona of 
many kinds, fish traps and hooks of fine workman- 
ship. Of these last some are of human bone, others 
of tortoise-shell, ivory or sea-shell; and here, too, are 
the hooks hammered from the nails procured from 
the early voyagers. The hooks range in size from a 
tiny shell hook less than half an inch across to the 
large wooden shark hook that was always baited with 
human flesh. Among these are the great platters 
made from alapainui, saturated with the blood of 
many a slave fatted to make himself useful as shark 
bait. 

Man cannot live to eat and work only ; he must 
have play, and by the playthings here it will be in- 
ferred that the old Hawaiians had their share of 
amusements. Many of these were athletic sports of 
the finest kind. Would that the youth of the 
present day could roll the ulumaika with the zest 
they put into the far inferior base ball ; ride the surf- 
board as easily as they ride the bicycle, and hurl an 
ihe or spear as powerfully as did the contemporaries 
of Kamehameha I. Here is a spherical ulu of good 
workmanship, weighing twenty-two pounds, that 
would exhaust a modern bowler. But while the men 
were sliding down hill on the holua, the women 



26 



FROM IXDKI'KXDKXC'K IIALL 





were making feather cloaks or braiding the strands 
of human hair for leis in a way far superior to any- 
other braid of hair found in the Pacific. 

Here are Hawaiian adzes in astonishing variety 
from the rudely chipped block to the finely finished 
tool, and with these are the grind-stones on which 

the patient 
adz m a k e r 
s h a rpened 
the stone. 
To go to ex- 
t r e m e s we 
pass from the 
very solid 
stone adz, 
most durable 
of relics, to 
an article 
which is pro- 
v e r b i a 1 1 y 

flimsy and ephemeral, a woman's hat. Here are 
half a hundred made of a great variety of material 
from shavings to bean pods. Those of loulu and 
hako are especially fine and suggest the desirability 
of a larger manufacture than at present obtains. 

Turning from these islands to the more extensive 
region that the plan of the museum embraces, 
there are several departments where the museum is 




NUUANU STREET— LOOKING UP. 



AROUND THE WORLD 27 

as rich as in specimens simply Hawaiian. Of 
Maori implements and manufactures there is a re- 
markably complete and valuable series. So of Fiji, 
while the Marquesas and Society Islands are hardly 
represented at all. Micronesia is here in force, so 
are New Guinea and Solomon Islands, and there is 
a fair show of Australian implements. 

In the picture gallery the portraits, although often 
far from artistic work, are interesting from their sub- 
jects, the Kings, Queens and Alii of Hawaii. The 
photographs are very instructive, but strangely, the 
poorest of these are those of Hawaiians. 

Among the relics is the silver teapot given to 
Madame Boki by the King of England, also the one 
sent to Kaahumanu, and the large silver cup given 
by Queen Victoria to her sister-Queen Emma. Far 
more interesting than these is a bit of looking glass 
given by Vancouver to Kamehameha I, and which 
doubtless has reflected the faces of Hawaii's greatest 
chiefs; as if conscious of this it now refuses to re- 
flect any more. 

Honolulu's System of Water Supply consists of 
one intermediate reservoir and three storage basins in 
Nuuanu Valley, and one at the entrance of Makiki 
Valley (fed by the streams and springs of the neigh- 
borhood), with a combined capacity of 40,369,937 
gallons, and five flowing artesian wells of seven and 



28 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HAI.L 



five-eighths inches bore connecting with the mains in 
the eastern part of the city and Waikiki. 

The street mains comprise nearly thirty-six and a 
half miles of pipe, divided as follows : 

One hundred and fifty feet, twenty-four inch ; 100 
feet, sixteen inch; 10,300 feet, fifteen inch; 27,560 
feet, twelve inch; 1000 feet, ten inch; 31,790 feet, 
six inch; 6220 feet, five inch; 69,574 feet, four 
inch; 17,285 feet, three inch; 8167 feet, two inch; 
a total of 192,586 feet. 

At the last report of the Superintendent of Water 
Works for the Legislature of 1892 there were 2109 
privileges supplied by the above system, at rates 
ranging from $5.00 to $320.00 per annum, produ- 
cing an annual income of over $42,000. 




AROUND THE WORLD 



29 



FROM HONOLULU (Lat. 21 °, 18 North) 
To YOKOHAMA (Lat. 35°, 26' North). 



Distance, 3420 miles. 
Time, 12 days. 
Fare, first-class, $100. 



Difference in Clock : 
Philadelphia, 12 Noon. 
San Francisco, 9 A. M. 
Honolulu, 6.30 A. M. 
Yokohama, 2 A. M. 




HE enterprise of our merchants 
has been fully developed and 
attested on the Western Ocean. 
There are two lines from San 
Francisco to Honolulu, Japan 
and Hong Kong. 

Both are American and they 

work in concert. The Occidental 

and Oriental have a powerful and 

celebrated fleet. The Pacific Mail 

Steamship Company operates the 

following : 

The China, City of Pekin, City of Rio Janeiro, 

Peru, City of Sydney, Colima Acapulco, Colon, San 

Bias, San Jose, San Juan, Costa Pica, Starbuck, 

Barracouta. 

Besides these the same Company runs upon the 



30 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HAEE 



Atlantic the Newport, City of Para, the Columbia, 
and the Miller Griffith (a. tug). "The China," the 
Queen of the fleet, is*456 feet long, of 5000 tonnage, 
and 8000 horse-power. She was built in 1889, at 



^mr^ 





PILE DWELLINGS AT TOKIO. 



Glasgow under the supervision of Captain Wm. B. 
Seabury, and cost nearly a million of dollars. Our 
country has reason to be proud of Captain Seabury. 
He is now in the very prime of life and vigor, although 
he has seen thirty-eight years of hard service, twenty- 



AROUND TJIE WORLD 31 

nine years of which have been with the Pacific M. S- 
Company. Think of this sea record : seven times 
round Cape Horn before he was 21 ; nine years in 
sailing ships, 101 round voyages from New York to 
Colon, fifty six voyages from San Francisco to British 
Columbia, five from New York to .Sydney, many 
from San Francisco to Panama and back and from 
San Francisco to China and back one from New 
York to San Francisco through the straits of Magel- 
lan, one from Glasgow through the Mediterranean 
and the Suez Canal to Hong Kong. 

The Clock Time at Sea. — One does not need to 
travel over the sea in order to realize the changes 
of the watch. 

A journey from Philadelphia to Chicago throws 
every time-piece an hour ahead, for noon at the 
starting point will be 11 A. M. in the western city. 
So if the race with the sun be continued to San 
Francisco, the noon of home will become 9 A. M. at 
the Pacific. Proceeding on to Honolulu the dis- 
crepancy increases, noon of Philadelphia is 6.30 A. 
M. at the Sandwich Islands, and at Yokohama the 
home mid-day is 2 A. M. 

It is clear, therefore, that one can exchange noon 
for midnight if he only travel far enough. At that 
moment he passes to another day in his calendar. 
This is what must be understood by the common 
expressions "gaining a day," "losing a day." In 



32 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



fact, no day is gained nor lost. The day remains, 
but by an absolute law of navigation a correction of 
time must be made. It was said to the writer that 
"out somewhere in the Pacific a day was dropped or 
"the same day was twice counted." But the locality 




A JINRIKSHAW. 



of this "somewhere" and the details of the opera- 
tion can never be understood, or explained, save by 
actual experiment. We all understand that the 
circle is marked to contain 360 degrees, whereof 180 
degrees are, of course, the half. For the purposes 



AROUND THE WORLD 33 

of navigation most civilized nations calculate from 
the meridian of Greenwich. A steamer going west 
from Honolulu towards Yokohama may approach 
the 180° west of Greenwich on her fourth day from 




SETTING OUT FOR A JOURNEY IN A " KANGA." 

the Sandwich Islands. Suppose that fourth day to 
be Saturday, November 18, 1894, and that the 180° 
west is crossed at 11. A. M. of that day. As there is 
no 181° west, the hour the vessel crosses the line of 
180° west she finds herself, according to her map 
approaching the 179° east of Greenwich. Therefore 



34 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

she must change her day to Greenwich time. At 
Greenwich it is not Saturday, November 18, but 
Sunday, November 19, 1894. The ship accordingly 
drops Saturday, calls it Sunday and thus goes on. 

An English writer, the celebrated Lieutenant 
Leckey, has published a very learned and interest- 
ing work entitled "Wrinkles in Practical Naviga- 
tion." He explains this somewhat puzzling rule 
very clearly: "Going east or west round the world 
"there will be no real gain or loss of a day." 
Otherwise a man, by continually sailing round east, 
might be considered — from the frequent repetition 
of a day which it entailed — to have lived longer 
than another who stopped at home. In the case of 
the traveller he only appears to gain a day, as each 
one of those he has lived whilst on his journey has 
been shorter by a certain number of minutes which 
has arisen from the difference of longitude traversed 
between two consecutive arrivals of the sun on his 
meridian whilst the day of the man who remained 
behind has always contained the complete twenty- 
four hours. 

Again, if two men, A and B, started at the same 
instant on a journey round the world, the first going 
east and the other west, and neither made any 
alteration in their dates from time of setting out 
until their return, together, on the same day, this is 
what would happen: A would believe he had 



AROUND THE WORLD 



arrived, say on Sunday, and B would persist in con- 
sidering it as Friday. There would be a difference 
of two whole days in their reckoning, but no one 
would seriously entertain the idea that on this ac- 
count A had lived forty-eight hours longer than B. 

The actual clay of the week would, of course, be 
Saturday, and the actual time occupied by each on 
the journey would be precisely the same." 

The STEERAGE.-The Chinese have a strong attach- 
ment for their New Years day, which comes round 
in February. To guard against the inability of our 
ships to carry an immense multitude the Orientals 
start early on their home pilgrimage. Hence in 
November the Steamship " China " left San Fran- 
cisco with over 600 Chinese and received 200 more 
at Honolulu. They pay $51 a head for the voyage 
from San Francisco to Hong Kong. They sleep on 
shelves — males separate from females. How they 
manage to live seems a marvel. The visit to their 
crowded quarters makes a strong impression on the 
memory and on the olfactories. The troop is divided 
into companies of ten. They select a commissary. He 
obtains a ticket from the steward — presents it when 
he receives the rations and gets it back when he 
returns the vessels. There are no tables — no chairs. 
They sit or squat on the deck, help themselves from 
the filled tins each commissary brings to his mess 
by ladling a portion into their cups. Then they 



36 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

eat, laugh and chat in the most contented man- 



ner. 



The supplies are well cooked and from the 
avidity with which the articles are consumed they 




A JAPANESE RELIGIOUS SERVICE. 

must be palatable. But to our eyes the food seems 
to be curious and unknown. There are three meals 
served in this fashion per diem. The breakfast is at 
7. It consists of beef, cabbage, beans, pickled ginger, 



AROUND THE WORLD 37 

orange peel tea. Lunch comes at 12, of shrimps, 
vermicelli soup, beef, rice, tea. Supper is at 4. It 
is composed of bean card, cabbage, potatoes and 
beef stew, dried turnips, salt peas, pickled onions, 
rice and tea. Sometimes duck eggs are served. 
These have been preserved in coatings of yellow or 
black earth. The boast is made that these cover- 
ings keep the eggs fresh. But this is not always 
the result. Nor indeed do all the Chinese so desire 
it to be. One will take a very rotten egg and refuse 
it. Another will pick it up, and devour it — saying, 
" Ah! Ah! Inglee man take cheesee all maggots 
good in mouth. I likee black eggee.^ 

So forcible is the example of the great! 

The supplies cost the ship ten cents a day per capita. 

Living in Japan. — Persons who find the climate 
of our Eastern States annoying and who are seeking 
for more congenial spots may well consider Hawaii 
and Japan. The former is warmer but has less 
excitement and attraction. The south coast of Japan 
has its season of slight snow falls and demanding 
fires, but it is never troubled with severe frosts. The 
lover of skating has been knowm to shade a small 
piece of water with mats to keep off the sun and to 
secure a very thin ice on which to try his skill. This 
country has also the advantage of many foreign 
vessels, of telegraphs, of cheap living and of harm- 



38 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



less (?) earthquakes. Although many thousands were 
destroyed a few years ago yet visitors have, it is said, 
regretted that there was no shock during their stay. 




A JAPANESE FAMILY AT MEAL TIME. 

Many of the houses are so built as to guard 
against destruction and it is alleged that no 
foreigners have ever been killed. Living is very 
cheap, coal and some necessaries very dear, but 
what we call luxuries are at very moderate rates. 

Then your gold commands nearly two to one in 
Japanese dollars (called yens). 



AROUND THE WORL.D 



39 



Many walk with wooden sandals raised several 
inches from the ground by two upright narrow 
strips running across the soles. These shoes make 
a curious noise and enforce a mincing gait. 

The hotel waiters move across the floors in socks. 




A JAPANESE TAILOR SHOP. 

In their little sitting rooms they have a few live 
coals to keep their feet warm. It is stated that no 
Japanese enters a house wearing the shoes used on 
the street. These are always left at the door and 
slippers substituted. Obviously the object is cleanli- 
3 



40 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



ness. The men seem so far as legs are concerned to 
belong to different races. The waiters are about 5 
feet high, and their lower limbs are not only very 
thin, but as if this were a matter of pride they are 

encased in tightly 
fitting trousers show- 
ing the attenuations 
to the greatest ad- 
vantage. 

Yet the outsiders 
are large and the 
pull-men have mus- 
cular calves. I give 
this name to the 
jinrikishaw pushers. 
Cabs are very scarce- 
In place of them one 
finds in front of the 
hotels, the stations 
and other places, a 
little gig, large 
enough for only one 
person, seat low down 
and baby shafts in 
front. It looks like a toy conveyance. It is called a 
inrikisha. The name means man puller. The 
traveller must be cautious lest an untimely slip of this 
new horse should throw the shafts up and pitch the 




GROUP OF JAPANESE LADIES. 



AROUND THE WORLD 41 

occupant out backward. Some such accident has 
been exhibited by a clever artist whose picture hangs 
as a warning at the hotel door. The man who 
drags you thus along has no covering below the 
knees; is clad in drawers and a loose coat coming to 
the hips. His head is covered with a light hat 
looking exactly like an inverted wash basin with a 
broad brim. His trot is an even jog. In the city 
on smooth macadamized streets the work is no 
slight affair. In the country where the highways 
are narrow and worn occasionally into deep seams 
the labor is great, always aggravated when a rain 
creates mud. The pay for this hard work is very 
small — only 15 cents an hour. 

A guide receives two yens ($2) a day and finds 
himself. Allowing for the large premium on our 
money, the uncertainties of constant employment, 
the necessity for a respectable appearance, etc., the 
wages seem very small. 

The rikshaw, as it is generally pronounced, is not 
the only peculiarity of the Japanese laborer. He 
builds his houses generally with an inside shell (to 
guard against the dreaded earthquakes), often with- 
out nails; the plane and the saw are drawn towards 
the workman; mills are disliked and hand-power is 
the favorite. 



42 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL, 



Yokohama. — This city, although regarded by 
many foreigners as the largest in Japan, is really 
inferior in population to many of her sisters. It is 




HSHHSHaKiHa 
YOKOHAMA— A GLIMPSE OF THE WATER FRONT. 

merely the principal treaty port opened to foreigners 
in 1859. It is well situated on a large bay. Its 
harbor is protected by a break-water. The streets 
are well laid out and macadamized. Some of the 
buildings seem to have been constructed without 



AROUND THE WORLD 43 

any fear of earthquakes before the eyes of the 
owners. Amongst these one notices the Grand 
Hotel, Domestic Missions and Public Buildings. 
The picturesque appearance of Yokohama is en- 
hanced by the volcano Fusi-Yama, visible, though at 
a great distance, in clear weather. Its summit is 
snow T capped and it is said to be 13,000 feet high. 

The Grand Hotel well deserves its name. It is 
two stories high, facing the broad street and the bay, 
with a splendid garden and fountain in the rear. 
The large dining room with its mountains of chrys- 
anthemums is a very pleasing sight, and Mr. Louis 
Eppinger is all that could be desired of a courteous 
and obliging manager. 

Dai-Butsu. — In the grounds of the "Ko-toku-in " 
(Jodo Sect) Monastery of Kamakura, situated but a 
short distance from the village of Hase and the sea- 
coast, is preserved one of the most remarkable repre- 
sentations of the Buddha which. Japan has produced, 
an image so perfect that it is regarded as the culmi- 
nation of the art of bronze-casting in that country. 

The name, Dai-Butsu, is given to a colossal repre- 
sentation of Buddah. There are many of these 
images in Japan. A description of one will suffice 
for all, the differences not being worthy of special 
note. The nearest to Yokohama is to be found 
within a short distance of Kamakara. This place 




L 



AROUND THE WORLD 45 

is reached by rail and is about fourteen miles (one 
hour) from Yokohama. The ride is very interesting 
to the stranger. The scenery is beautifully inter- 
spersed with mountains and fertile valleys. The 
Japanese seem to understand the art of irrigation. 
They do not dig deep ditches round their fields, 
leaving the water to find its way to the crops, but 
they make sure of every drop. The ground is cut 
into small squares, triangles, etc. The bottom is 
then scraped to the side and 1 tanked up. Thus the 
land is covered with a quantity of earth basins 
varying in size from a perch to five acres. The 
water is then let on to the ground and there it 
stands, making no trenches, but hundreds of little 
lakes. Here flourish the rice, the bamboo, and all 
their crops, in great luxuriance. 

The soil needs no plough. The farmer wields an 
instrument like our adze. But the handle is long 
and the blade very deep. Struck into the ground 
it turns up an immense clod. 

The houses in the villages are very quaint. They 
are built like the English cottages with enormous 
thatching for roofs and sometimes a crop growing on 
the very crest. 

The Dai-Butsu is a mammoth figure sitting on 
stone. At first constructed of wood, the present 
bronze image was substituted perhaps six centuries 
ago. It stood in a spacious temple destroyed about 



46 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



four hundred years since by an inundation. The 
foundations and the Dai-Butsu remain. It represents 
Buddah seated, his hands meeting in front. The 




THE DAI-BUTSU. 



expression of the eyes and face is very pleasing. The 
figure is hollow. A small opening at the corner of 
the foundation permits an entrance. Inside is a 



AROUND THE WORLD 47 

ladder by which you can ascend to the neck. From 
your perch you see a gilded image in the head and 
three gilded figures on a shelf. It is reported in the 
books that the eyes are of pure gold, etc. But the 
sockets appear to be empty. 

Murray in his hand-book says : 

" The DAI-BUTSU, or GEE AT BUDDAH, stands alone 
"among Japanese works of art. No other gives such an 
" impression of majesty, or so truly symbolizes the central 
"idea of Buddhism, the intellectual calm which comes of 
" perfected knowledge and the subjugation of all passion." 

Mr. Bayard Taylor says in his work " Japan in 
Our Day," that " The Monument dedicated to Dai- 
Butsu, that is, the Great Buddha, may be considered 
as the most complete work of the Japanese genius, in 
regard both to art and to the religious sentiment 
... a gigantic seated divinity of bronze, with 
folded hands and head gently inclined in an atti- 
tude of contemplative ecstasy. . . . There is an 
irresistible charm in the posture of Dai-Butsu, in the 
harmony of his bodily proportions, in the noble 
simplicity of his drapery, and in the calmness and 
serenity of his countenance." 

Mr. A. C. Maclay, A. M., L. L. B., in " A Budget 
of Letters from Japan," says: " The Dai-Butsu sits 
there in the open air, his head looming above the 
pine trees, and his face turned toward the peaceful 



48 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



waters of the ocean, typical of the dreamless 
Nirvana." 

Mr. Percival Lowell says in " The Soul of the 
Far East," "The Kamakura Buddha, . . . in whose 





YOKOHAMA. A GL1MPSF OF THE FOREIGN QUARTER. 



face all that is grand and noble lies sleeping, the 
living representation of Nirvana." 

Dr. C. Dresser, Ph. D., F. L. S., etc, in "Japan- 
Its Architecture," says: " The figure sits in dignified 
repose with a most placid expression of countenance. 



cn ) ti:i: wo.'.i/.) 



49 




TOKIO— A TRAVELING SHRINE AND ITINERANT CHOIR. 



50 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

From its forehead protrudes a boss representing a 
jewel from winch light is supposed to now, and 
which symbolizes an idea similar to that expressed 
in our Scriptures, 'I am the Light of the World.'" 

The priests in charge of the monastery declare 
that it is their endeavor to preserve and embellish 
the Image and Church and to raise a suitable edifice 
to contain the Dai-Butsu and protect it from the 
ravages of time and the effects of the weather so they 
may faithfully hand down and transmit to posterity 
this relic of mediaeval days which they have 
received from their predecessors as a precious and 
sacred National trust, and it is therefore hoped that 
in the interest of Religion, Art and History alike, 
all visitors will kindly make some contribution to 
the building fund, as Japan is not a rich country, 
and to collect a sum of money sufficient to carry 
out the object successfully is at best a work of many 
years, especially when it is borne in mind that the 
Meiji Government has confiscated all ecclesiastical 
possessions and disestablished the Buddhist church, 
thereby leaving the priests well-nigh penniless. 

There has been a temple in this place since the 
eighth century, but the image is of much later date. 
Its precise history is involved in obscurity. Tra- 
dition, however, says that the Shogun Yoritomo, 
when taking part in the dedication of the restored 
Dai-Butsu at Nara, 1195 A. D., to which place he 



52 FROM INDEPENDECE HALE 

had been summoned by the Emperor to supervise 
the ceremony, conceived the desire of having a simi- 
lar object of worship at his own Capital, but died 
before he could put his plan into execution. One of 
his waiting ladies, Itano, undertook to collect funds 
for the purpose, resigned her appointment, and 
with the cordial approval of Masago and the Shogun 
Yoritsugu, worked with such devotion of heart that 
in 1224 A. D., the priest, Joko (who had collected 
money far and wide) with the permission of the 
Emperor, was enabled to commence the first image 
(which was of wood) and it was completed in 1238 
A. D. A splendid chapel was also constructed here. 
In the autumn of 1243 A. D., the chapel was over- 
thrown by a mighty storm and the image seriously 
damaged. Again Itano bestirred herself in the w T ork, 
being assisted by the Shogun, who provided the 
metal to cast a bronze image, and restored the 
Temple in all its former splendor. 

The image was commenced in the fourth year of 
Kencho, the eighth month and the seventeenth day, 
and the founder was Ono, an artificer" of Yanamura, 
in the county of Moda, province of Kadzusa. 

This was the first time that such a marvellous 
piece of metal work had been thus successfully 
attempted in Japan, and the perfect artistic mastery 
of form and true beauty and grandeur of outline 



AROUND THE WORLD 



53 



which characterizes Ono's master-piece, is a wonder- 
ful triumph of Japanese Glyptic Art. 

The Temple was completely destroyed by storms 
twice, once in 1335 A. D., and once in 1369 A. D., 
but was repaired. Again in 1495 A. D., the build- 
ings were swept away by a tidal wave, but this time 
the priests were unable to raise funds for their 
restoration and only the image and the stone founda- 
tions of the church were left. 

In the period 1711-1715 a Buddhist Archbishop 
named Yuten rebuilt the priest's residence and a 
certain Nojima Yasuke furnished money liberally 
and presented votive bronze lanterns and various 
ornaments to the church, but. the funds failed and the 
work of complete restoration w r as abandoned. 



The Measurements oe the Dai-Butsu are: 



Height 

Circumference 

Length of face 

Width from ear to ear 

Round white boss ou forehead 

Length of eye 

Length of eyebrow 

" " ear 

" " nose 

" " mouth 
Height of bump of wisdom 
Diameter of bump of wisdom 
Curls (of which there are 830): 

Length from kuee to knee . 
Circumference of thumb (say) 



Height 
Diameter 



Ft. In. 



4!) 


7.00 


97 


2.20 


8 


5.15 


17 


9.20 


1 


3.47 


3 


11.60 


4 


1.93 


6 


6.54 


3 


9.22 


3 


2.08 




9 52 


2 


4.56 




9.52 




11.90 


35 


8.40 


3 


0.00 



54 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

The eyes were pure gold and the silver boss 
weighed thirty pounds avoirdupois. The image is 
formed of sheets of bronze cast separately, brazed 
together and finished off on the outside with the 
chisel. 



[The following is a copy of an Ode sold at Kamakura by the Priests.] 

Natsu-kusa ya Tsuwamono Domo no Yume no ato. 1 
Basho. 



City of dreamland, ruined and sad, 
Once home of a people joyous and glad. 
All that is left, "a tale that is told," 
Temples dismantled and monuments cold. 

Ashes to ashes, dust to dust, 
Glory departed, swords turned to rust. 
Weeds, all that is left of hearts brave and gay 
Who 'erst to the battle went marching away. 

Citadel perished, towers fallen away, 
Fortress and temple doomed to decay, 
Courtier and warrior in panoply bright 
Passed like a shadowy dream of the night. 

Oh Buddha Eterual ! Thus come we and go. 

Fleeting is matter, " Sho-gyo-mujo." 2 
Such were thy words, " What waxeth must wane," 
After calm there is storm, after sunshine the rain. 
" Naught is a permanence," glory but show 

That leads to destruction, " Zesho Meppo." 3 

1 A dream of the past! In place of warriors, the grassland 
plants of summer. 

2 All phenomena are evanescent. 

3 They are subject to the law of growth and decay. 



56 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 




OK 10— Formerly Yed- 
do, the capital of the 
Empire, requires a visit, 
although the expendi- 
ture of time, muscle and 
money finds but little 
reward, the usually false 
coloring of books and 
the cackle of travellers 
to the contrary. Those who have plenty of time, 
money and curiosity, yet possessing little brains, 
make it a vital point to laud everything they 
have seen and sometimes that they have not 
seen. This in their judgment magnifies their own 
importance. Then they encounter a traveller for 
rest or for health, who has but a short vacation and 
wants simply to see a little in order to break the 
ennui of desired repose, they pounce upon him as a 
fair victim. He must see tJds, he should on no 
account miss that, is it possible he has come such a 
distance and is to omit the other? To the class of 
traveling musquitoes just described, the omission to 
visit Tokio would be little short of high treason. 
Yet like many enforced routines it does not pay. It 
is a very large city, prettily situated on a bay. It 
recalls John Randolph's sarcasm on our capital as a 
city of magnificent distances. Some describe it as 



AROUND THE WORLD 



57 



twenty-four miles in circumference, others say it is 
ten miles square. Standing on Atago-yama (a hill) 
the town seems to be of huge proportions. The 




TOKIO— A VIEW ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF THE CITY. 



It has a large and busy 



streets are generally wide. 

population, possesses one line of omnibusses and a 

tram road. 



58 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 

The horses are few and very thin. Occasionally 
you see a large ox pulling a load. The thousands 
of houses are of frame two stories high. There is a 
splendid castle, fine government buildings, an 
Imperial Hotel that well deserves its name, old 
walls and moat, new walls and moat, two parks, 
Sheba and Veno (pronounced Wayno), a museum, 
tomb of Shogun and a number of temples. It may 
safely be stated that all of these might be omitted 
by the sight-seer without occasioning a regret. But 
if a Pagoda is new to him, he will find one here. It 
is a very interesting structure, not large nor high, 
yet to an American very attractive. It is red. The 
large projecting roofs, five in number, are covered 
with what looks like tiling. Bells hang from each 
corner. Carvings line each cornice. 

A river called the Sumida runs through the city. 
Here as everywhere in Japan the traveller is 
attracted by the peace, the good order, the industry, 
the thrift, the sobriety, the great contentment of 
the working classes. Beyond all attractions of 
temples or ruins, the country certainly possesses the 
great charm of a happy and law-abiding popula- 
tion. 

Besides the places described there are other cities 
in Japan of considerable importance. 

Nikko contains the burial place of a Shogun, a 



AROUND THE WORLD 



59 



fine mausoleum, a celebrated pagoda and a copper 
column. 

Miyanoshita, famous for its beautiful scenery. 




NIKKO. 



Nagasaki, one of the finest harbors in the world. 
Osaka, the Liverpool of Japan. 
Kobe, on the Inland Sea. 



60 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

Importations of Words by the Japanese. — The 
natives of this Empire have been so blessed by 
Providence that before their European and American 
experiences they did not use soap, bread or hats. 

Their hot springs enabled them to preserve great 
cleanliness, their plants supplied all they ate and 
with the exception of some slight head gear worn 
by the lower classes they went without hats. 

Hence they to-day call soap, shavon; bread, pan, 
and hats, chapeau. Every one has heard that lunch 
is termed tiffin. 

Japanese Railroads. — Japan can already boast 
over thirteen different lines of railroads, extending 
beyond 1000 miles. The speed is not very great. 
The cars are divided into classes. The difference 
between the first and second classes is only in the 
color of the seat covers. The fares are very reason- 
able and the service good. 

The falls of Katsuragawa are regarded by many 
as very wonderful. The traveller is carried rapidly 
down a dozen cascades. The boat is staunch. No 
accidents are reported. When the season favors, 
three or more feet of water are found in the shallow- 
est places. To preserve the depth, stone walls are 
built at the sides of some of the descents. The boats 
are pulled back to the top by men with long ropes, 
another steering up stream. It takes over four hours 



AROUND THE WORLD 



61 



to retrace the passage which occupied only one 
hour. 

The Inland Sea of Japan is one of the few 
sights which really pays for the trouble of a visit. 




GENERAL VIEW OF KOBE. 



It is reached by the steamers plying westward from 
Yokohama to Kobe. This voyage takes about twenty- 
five hours. The boat stops some time. Kobe stands, 
like most of the cities of Japan, on a terraced plain 



62 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



surrounded by high mountains. In clear weather 
the view is very picturesque. 

From Kobe the steamer proceeds over the Inland 
Sea to Nagasaki. The voyage takes about twenty-six 
hours and affords a succession of beautiful views. The 
sea is sometimes ten or twenty miles in width, then 

it narrow's to 
t w o miles, 
mountains al- 
ways on both 
sides. At 
times a num. 
ber of islands 
appear, then 
a huge castle 
rock with an 
arched door- 
way opens 
from side to 
side. 

It is very 
suggestive of 
the Archipelago on the coast of Norway. The bay 
of Nagasaki and the city make a very pleasing pic- 
ture. The town has an old temple on a high hill. 
As is often the case in Japan, you pass under a 
beam supported some fifty feet from the ground by 
columns, making an entrance forty feet wide. This 




OSWA TEMPLE, NAGASAKI. 



ABOUND THE WOBLD 



63 



however, does not usher you into the temple but 
simply to a flight of steps leading to another cross- 
piece with similar supports, and so you pass through 
a number of portals. At Nagasaki the first was all 
bronze, the second and third stone. 

From Nagasaki a westward course leads on to 
-China and you reach Shanghai, 450 miles, in thirty- 
six hours. 




64 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



CHINA. 

Latitude of Hong Kong N. 22°. 
Difference in Clocks. — Noon at Philadelphia, 
12.50 A. M. at Hong Kong. 

Fares from Yokohama to Calcutta, one ticket, $281. If to 
Hong Kong, $60; if from Hong Kong to Colombo, $190, but 
if one ticket from Yokohama to Colombo, $225. The dollars 
above noted are silver dollars worth in fall of 1S94 only fifty 
cents. The fare in gold is, therefore, one half of the above 
rates. 




HANGHAI is 
up a river. 



over fourteen miles 
The steamer anchors 
in the bay, a tug carries the pas- 
sengers and luggage. The voyage 
of an hour and a half brings to 
mind the low flat shores of the 
Delaware. Some men-of-war are 
stationed here. The city front is 
attractive. No miserable, narrow 
Water street, but a wide avenue 
called the " Bund " with large 
stone and brick offices, agencies, 
etc., greets the stranger with as- 
surance of business enterprise. The city is Chinese 
only in name. The English, French and Americans 
have their respective quarters and the British police- 



AROUND THE WORLD 65 

man stalks the streets. All the servants at the 
hotels are Chinamen, receiving about ten cents a day 
for their kind attention to you. A large import of 
cotton ' was at the wharf. One hears of factories 
which are to inundate the United States with cheap 
fabrics. 

The climate is cold in winter but not very hot in 
summer. From statements of those who have 
resided here for years it is quite as objectionable as 
Philadelphia for a winter residence but the heat of 
July and August is not so severe as with us. 

The Chinese have no jurisdiction over foreigners 
and all litigation in which the English, French and 
Americans are concerned is conducted before their 
own courts. 

The marks of English enterprise are exhibited not 
only in the stately and columned buildings they 
have erected but in the development of factories. 

The Chinese have also been busy. Jessfield, 
formerly a deserted suburb of Shanghai, is now the 
scene of a thriving industry. It is termed the Hing 
Chong Silk Filature. It is situated on the right of 
the Soochow Creek and covers quite a large area. 

A short time ago this was open country. The 
establishment is the property of a Chinese Company 
under the direction of Mr. Kienchong and Mr. 
Maertens. Over eight hundred women and children 
are employed on 300 reels and basins. When the 



66 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 



cocoons are delivered from the interior they are 
carefully inspected and classified. The large white 
and even cocoons are ranked as No. 1. 

A girl is assigned to every two women. The duty 
of the child is to immerse the cocoons in boiling 





PEKING. THE ENTRANCE TO THE IMPERIAL PALACE. 

water and hand them to the women who reel off 
the silk. The system of charging and accounting is 
stated to be so perfect that it is almost impossible 
for any of the property to be secreted. 

The machinery is principally of Italian make, the 
water is supplied by the creek, the lighting is by 



AROUND THE WORLD 67 

electricity and the mill is to be run, says the Shang- 
hai paper, night and day, except two months in the 
year. Ten hours make a day's work. 

The enterprise is in able hands and promises well. 

The man-puller receives here even less than in 
Japan. Fifty cents a day for him and his gig is the 
rate. 

On such a wage scale American manufacturers 
must anticipate a terrible competition, and with 
free-trade to help the foreign pauper-laborers the 
American workman may starve. This will perhaps 
be made more manifest by the study of the report of 
the British Consul, Mr. Enslie, as to the trade in 
Osaka for 1893. He says: 

" Anyone visiting Osaka now after a lapse of 
many years cannot fail to be struck with the 
enormous change which has taken place in the city 
and suburbs. It was always considered the com- 
mercial capital of Japan, but now it may be termed 
the Manchester of that progressive country. Twenty 
years ago there was but a single chimney stack in 
the place, which belonged to the mint, but now 
shafts rise by hundreds and the air is black with 
the smoke they emit. Twenty years ago, also, there 
was but one cotton-spinning mill in the neighbor- 
hood of Osaka, situated at Sakai, some nine miles dis- 
tant and that was of very limited capacity, but at the 
close of 1893 there were numerous cotton mills in 



68 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

the district with every prospect of a rapid increase, 
for the Japanese ' government, with great wisdom 
and forethought, fosters and encourages industries 
of all sorts, having the welfare of the people 
thoroughly at heart." 

The rapid spread of the cotton industry in Japan 
has had a remarkable effect upon the import of raw 
cotton. Ten years ago, though cotton mills had 
made a good start, the quantity imported was small, 
as it only amounted to 2,808,348 pounds, of the 
value of 247,506 yen for the whole of Japan, 
whereas in 1893 the import increased to 154,442,368 
pounds, of the value of 16,151,570 yen, and of this 
quantity the Hiogo and Osaka districts absorbed 
no less than 99,321,825 pounds, or eighty three per 
cent., being an excess of nearly 19,000,000 pounds 
on the import of the previous year. On the other 
hand the advance of the cotton spinning industry 
had an adverse effect on the foreign yarn trade, for 
in 1883 the import was 32,854,166 pounds against 
25,873,536 pounds in 1893, and it is very certain 
that the current year will show a still greater falling 
off in this respect. 

Moreover the leading industry of Japan shows an 
exceptionally good profit to the spinner, and though 
mills are on the increase their products are steadily 
increasing in demand so that there is every prospect 
of the business continuing highly remunerative. 



ABOUND THE WORLD 71 

The figures quoted by Mr. Enslie must be a 
revelation to Manchester. The following estimate is 
given of producing a bale of No. 20 yarn of left twist, 
selling in the market at ninety -two yen: 

Price of middling Bombay cotton . Yen 54 

Cost of spinning .... 10 

Allowance for waste, etc. . . 8 

Balance (profit) ..... 20 

Yen 92 

That this estimate is not at all exaggerated is 
evidenced by the fact that the leading mills of the 
district have paid enormous dividends to their share- 
holders. The Osaka and Temma Cotton Spinning 
Companies have each paid an annual dividend of 
ten per cent.; the Amagaski ten and a half per cent.; 
the Naniwa twelve and a half per cent., and the 
Hirano and Shenshiu Companies each paid the 
astonishing dividend of twenty per cent. Mr. Enslie 
also quotes figures showing the profit accruing dur- 
ing the second half of the year under review to 
cotton mills for every spindle worked, which in the 
case of nineteen such establishments selected ranged 
from yen 1.53 to yen 5.80, and he adds that "much 
confidence is expressed with regard to still larger 
profits during the ensuing six months, as the 
demand is generally in excess of the supply." 

The Japan mills are worked upon very sound 
principles, and in the majority of cases the owners 
5 



72 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



have framed rules and regulations for the comfort 
and convenience of the vast number of operatives 
employed which are highly creditable to them, and 




LI HUNG CHANG, PRIME MINISTER OF CHINA. 



AROUND THE WORLD 



73 



were more especially necessary as most of the mills 
worked day and night without intermission. This 
state of prosperity has recently received a slight 
check owing to the war, and the night work has 



■ : 1 




A CHINESE PLOUGHMAN. 

ceased, but it is hoped that this will only be 
temporary. 

The trade between China and Japan has long 
labored under serious difficulties, and it was not 
profitable, because not only was an import duty paid 
on the raw cotton but an export duty was levied on 



PROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 



the yarn exported. The attention of the Japanese 
government was called to the disabilities under 
which the spinners labored, and the export duty 
was cancelled, so that a brisk and profitable trade 
at once sprang up which was promptly nipped in 
the bud by the Chinese authorities when the war 
broke out, by the imposition of a prohibitive lekin 
tax. It is probable that when peace is established 
the Japanese government will take steps to have 
this withdrawn, and then no doubt Japan will 
supply the Chinese consumer with yarn in large 
quantities, which will be in effect an exchange for 
the raw cotton they purchase from them. 

Contrast the fostering care which the Japanese 
Government exercises over this important and 
growing industry with the action of the Chinese 
authorities. Cotton mills would extend and flourish 
in China as much as they do in Japan, did the of- 
ficials encourage their establishment as they ought 
to do, but here the greed of the officials stands in 
the way of the welfare of the people, and the indus- 
try, which should benefit the millions, is only used 
as a monopoly to benefit their rapacious rulers. By 
ignorance, obstinacy, cruel oppression and extortion 
they crush all enterprise and obstruct the com- 
mercial advancement of the nation. 



76 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

Chinese aversion to hunting. — After foxes had 
become an affair of the past in Philadelphia, some 
of our horsemen — who ape the English — established 
the sport of paper hunting. A member of the party 
was sent ahead to distribute small pieces of paper. 
After his allowance of time expired the so-called 
hounds started in pursuit. They paid no regard to 
fences or enclosures, and rode yelling across the 
country, regardless of private rights and public 
peace. On one occasion — so runs the history — they 
came like a thunder-bolt into the newly sown field 
of one of our best physicians and noblest of citizens. 
He started from his library with his double-barelled 
gun, and soon taught the imitators of English lords 
that there was a slight difference between a peasant 
who should feel honored " you know" by the destruc- 
tion of his crops, and the gentleman who occupied a 
somewhat different position. 

See how history repeats itself. Our English 
cousins have been trying the fox hunting and the 
paper scattering business near Shanghai, but with 
something of the same disappointment. The Graphic 
of October 30, 1894, represents Chinese farmers lay- 
ing in wait for the hunters, with sickles ready to 
wound the ponies. In another cartoon, a bridge of 
a single plank is defended by a rough, armed with 
a big brush and a bigger bucket of filth. But worst 
of all, in a third picture, a dismounted lord loses 



AROUND THE WORLD 



77 



his pony and is attacked by an army of Amazons, 
armed with brooms and shoes. The paper thus 
describes the sport: 

"During the long Shanghai winter, paper-hunting 
is the most popular 
sport with riders who 
do not mind a little 
rough work across 
country. 

An hour or so be- 
fore the advertised 
start of a hunt, the 
foxes, who are always 
the winners of the 
previous chase, a c- 
companied by a few 
friends, and two or 
three mafoos (Chinese 
grooms), set out to lay 
the paper. This is 
scattered thickly at short intervals, especially on 
graves and other raised ground, while one or more 
checks are given by leaving a gap in the paper or 
laying a false scent. The distance covered varies 
from eight to twelve miles, the finish, which is 
generally a few yards after a good jump, being 
shown by two flags, between which the hunt must 
ride. 




PEKING, A LADY OF QUALITY. 



78 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

The object of the hunt is not to catch the foxes, 
and there are always stewards in charge to start 
the field and collect it when paper cannot be 
found, also that after crossing a bridge the foremost 
riders wait for the rest, and to look after the hunt 
generally. 

The prize for the light and heavy weight win- 
ners (the latter having to finish in the first six), 
is a small cup or an engraved sovereign, and by cus- 
tom, only winners of hunts are allowed to wear pink. 

The ponies for this work are bred in Mongolia, 
and are sent down in mobs to Shanghai when five 
or six years old. There the "griffins," as they are 
technically called, are usually put up to auction, 
with their rough coats on and untried, and are 
bought principally with a view to racing, the prices 
varying from thirty to two hundred taels, the tael, 
at the present low rate of exchange, being equal to 
about 2s. 9d. They are all geldings; no mares are 
allowed to leave Mongolia, as the natives wish to 
keep the monopoly of the breeding. As a rule they 
are good weight carriers, and can race carrying 
eleven stone or more, while twelve stone is a very 
ordinary weight for them to carry across country. 
They generally take kindly to jumping, and show a 
great keenness for sport. 

The country is sparsely wooded and extremely flat, 
the principal raised ground being Chinese graves, 



AROUND THE WORLD 



79 



which are simply grassy mounds, like the ancient 
harrows in Europe. There are several of these 
in each field, and coffins are strewn about " promis- 
cuous," which might have a depressing effect, were 
it not such an everv-dav sight. Numerous creeks 




PEKING. AN UMBRELLA MENI 



of all sizes run in every direction, and have to be 
crossed every few hundred yards by either jump- 
ing, wading, or on stone bridges of about three 
feet in width. There are also numerous dry-cuts, but 
no hedges and only a very occasional mud wall of 
two or three feet high. Wheat, cotton, and rice are 
the principal crops, and nearly every field is cut into 
ridge and furrow, galloping on smooth grass land 
being quite unknown. 



80 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

The natives, it is to be feared, are prejudiced 
against paper hunters; and, indeed, it is hardly to be 
wondered at, for, although there is a fund for com- 
pensating them for any damage done to crops, etc., as 
the money has to pass through the hands of Chinese 
officials it is more than probable that only a very 
minute portion of the original donation reaches 
those it was intended for. They show their ill will 
in various ways, for instance, by digging holes and 
tying bushes together on the further sides of jumps, 
gathering up the paper and laying it across impos- 
sible places ; and woe betide the luckless hunter who 
comes to grief and whose pony falls in their hands; 
he may consider himself lucky if he only has to pay 
through the nose before he gets his mount back. At 
the finish of most hunts there is a traditional old 
woman with a hoe, who makes herself generally 
objectionable until pacified by a silver bribe." 

No mail service in China. — We were told at 
Shanghai that there was no Chinese mail service. 
The English have put up street boxes and distribute 
letters within their jurisdiction. But if you wish to 
mail to home or to any foreign port the Consul's 
office must be visited. There is a postal agency 
where you can buy the stamps of your country and 
your letters can be dropped into the box in that 
room. 



AROUND THE WORLD 



81 



No civilized conveniences. — There is no under- 
ground drainage save for rain. Each person must 
accommodate himself to the enforced drill of a sick 
man and take his chances with an earth commode. 

Peking. — If a man burn with the desire to see a 
wretched hole, and is willing to incur the risks of 





PEKING. A TYPICAL STREET VIEW. 



being stoned, besides enduring fearful hardships, let 
him penetrate to the Celestial capital. 

The best communication now is by boat from 



82 FKOM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

Shanghai to Tientsin. This voyage is made in a 
steamer arranged for freight, with a small cabin 
boasting of no state-rooms or comforts. After enjoy- 
ing this stately trip for two days and three nights, 
you can reach a railroad, which, if not meanwhile 
torn up, will carry you fifty miles further. Thence 
forward for two days more, travelling in palanquin 
or on horseback, not knowing what will become of 
your baggage — or your carcass, you may, by the 
mercy of Providence, reach your destination, with 
reasonable certainty of not returning during the 
winter months. Here near the southern gate you 
will see a fine tower erected on a wall about forty 
feet high and thirty feet thick, faced with large 
bricks. The wall embraces a square of sixteen miles, 
counting all its sides. It has nine gates, of which the 
front is the largest. All these are shut shortly after 
sunset. Climbing the wall to enter Peking is pun- 
ished by death; leaving it in that style is simply 
banishment. The streets are rectangular, the long- 
est being about four miles. Some of them are very 
wide, but the residents pile on them their wares, and 
throw on them all imaginable filth. The carts are 
heavy. One cannot even indulge in the luxury of a 
jinkrickshaw. These conveyances were introduced 
sometime since but the conservative Chinese threw 
them into the ditch. 

After a rain the city is a vast mud-puddle. When 




DAGOBA IN THE TiEN-LING-SZ'. 

TEMPLE OF CELESTIAL INFLUENCE, LYING WEST OF PEKING. 

This monument was erected in the Sui dynasty about 600 A. D., and has many Hindu figures. 



84 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



the moisture dries the dust is intolerable. Yet it is 
said that the inhabitants owe to this latter annoy- 
ance the continuance of their lives as without the 
wind and dust the putrefactions would speedily de- 
stroy all life. 

In this Paradise dwells the "Brother of the Sun," 




A CHINESE FAMILY ON A PLEASURE TRIP. 

and here perforce reside foreign legations. The 
missionaries are active, and it is to be hoped that 
their preaching may tend to the cleanliness which 
is next to Godliness. 

As the native all over takes to billiards and ten- 



86 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

pins, there is hope for his reformation in other mat- 
ters. It has been suggested that the alacrity with 
which the Japanese have become civilized is owing 
to their tolertion of alcohol, whereas the Chinese 
and Turks abjure it, and remain stagnant. The tea 
saloons and opium dens have been so often described 
that it is not necessary to notice them. 

Credulity of Chinese. — Although a wary, and in 
many cases a shrewd people, the Chinese are, like all 
others, more or less liable to imposition. One of them 
dissatisfied with the recent defeats, had evidently 
received some very curious items of consolation. 
When jeered by an exultant Japanese, he quickly 
availed himself of his reply. "You no ready for 
light," said the Japanese, "we beatee you bery 
quick." The Chinaman waxed hot; "you no 
beatee, your Emperor marry sister of de French 
kingee, the Frenchee he beatee us." 

The Chinese art of healing. — Nothing can be 
imagined more satisfactory than the practice of 
medicine in China. The patient is offered a num- 
ber of papers. He selects one. The physician 
writes something on it and this is the remedy. The 
pharmaccepia is extensive. Every herb is used for 
a tea or poultice. But other remedies are invoked. 
A piece of the skin of an elephant and the tooth of 



88 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

a rhinocerous, powdered and well mixed make a fav- 
orite medicine for rheumatism. 

From Shanghai to Hong Kong is about 800 
miles. The voyage is made in fifty-five hoars. The 
steamer is most of the time in sight of land. The 
mountains, islands and fishing boats make a 
picturesque scene. Hong Kong is an island about 
eleven miles long, and in circumference about 
twenty-seven miles. The harbor is surrounded by 
mountains and reminds the traveller of Santiago de 
Cuba. The city is English. The principal hotel 
offices and business buildings are very imposing. 

Canton is distant five hours by steamer from 
Hong Kong. It is about two miles in breadth and 
six in circumference. It is renowned for its manu- 
factures, jade cutting, lacquer ware, cut glass, silk, 
its five storied Pagoda, water clock, the denseness 
of its population — estimated at 1,600,000 — the 
narrowness and filth of its streets, and the danger 
to foreigners. The English occupy a little island 
with a moat. At night the bridges are drawn up. 
The government undertakes to protect that spot. 
Beyond its lines you insure yourself. The thorough- 
fares surpass St. Giles. About fifteen feet in width, 
a gutter in the center, the pedestrian can touch the 
houses on each side. The buildings are very high 



AROUND THE WORLD 



and so is the death rate in time of pestilence. I 
am told that at such periods 1000 per day is not an 
unusual mortality. 

Misrule in China. — It would perhaps be difficult 
to find on earth a people more capable of achieving 
greatness than the Chinese. Patient, industrious, 
economical, pains-taking, submissive, their empire 
could under proper management easily assume its 
appropriate place. But it is misgoverned. The 
Emperor is a young man about twenty-four years 
of age, ambitious to do his whole duty. His mother 
and courtiers rule him. He has no time to examine 
or correct abuses. He is roused early to go through 
religious ceremonials. Then he must receive scores 
of officials. He rarely leaves his palace grounds. 
When he goes out, four or five times a year, the super- 
visors of highways have ample notice, they know 
his route, employ thousands of men, the roads are 
put in splendid condition, strewn with sand, and 
the monarch supposes it is thus always. The mis- 
management of the military department surpasses 
conception. Shells have been filled with burned 
berries, coffee, anything that would resemble 
powder. Cannon balls have actually been made of 
clay and painted black. Worthless muskets 
purchased for the price of old iron have been sold 
to the government for ten to twelve dollars each. 



90 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



A merchant was asked why he did not subscribe to 
the loan. He said that he kept his wealth where 
the mandarin could not find it and squeeze him. 




THE DECORATED PORTAL IN THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA, NEAR PEKING. 

An English gentleman stated that he had been 
requested to accompany a general on a tour ot 
inspection. The commander of the fort was 
informed by some runner that his superior was 



AROUND THE WORLD 91 

coming. Everything was as usual, dirt and con- 
fusion. Men were set instantly at work to polish 
the cannons. But what was to be done with the 
accumulations of filth and rubbish. As a happy 
thought they were crammed into the pieces. 

When the inspection was in progress the Chinese 
official asked the Englishman's opinion. He 
answered that he would like to examine the inside 
of the guns. Then came the revelation. 

Speaking English. — Few of them can undertake 
to talk to a foreigner, others profess to do so but can 
only utter Iz for Yes. 

A gentleman narrates his experience at Hong 
Kong somewhat in this fashion. He entered a store 
and asked if the man spoke English. The usual 
reply was made. The traveller said, Have you so 
and so? 

Chinese — Iz. 

Traveller (Looking around) — But you have not 
got it. 

Chinese — Iz. 

Traveller — You say you have it? 

Chinese — Iz. 

Traveller — And then you say you have not got it? 

Chinese — Iz. 

Traveller — What do you mean? Do you take me 
for a fool ? 



92 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

Chinese — Iz. 

They generally understand, however, sufficient to 
rule their employers. 

They insist upon every member of a family 
having his or her separate riksha and the same 
men will not serve two different persons. A lady 
remarked that she wanted her husband's pull-man 
to go with her. The answer came promptly, "No, 
no, you no be my pidgeon." Thus a family of five 
will require thirty servants. 

Religion of China and Japan. — With all that 
has been written on the subject, it is astonishing 
that there should be so much ignorance. Some 
fiercely contend that the two nations are all 
idolaters, others assert to the contrary. Some will 
say the Chinese are all Confucians; and then a 
blank ignorance as to Confucius and his teachings 
fills up the picture with any back-ground the 
imagination may supply. The truth is that Con- 
fucius never asserted a Divine origin, different in 
any respect from other mortals. He was born B. C. 
551, and was simply a great philosopher. His 
favorite saying was, " Reading without thought is 
fruitless, thought without reading is dangerous." 
Of himself he wrote, " I am an editor, not an 
author." He never rose to greater dignity than to be 
Governor of his native province, La. His teaching 



AROUND THE WORLD 



93 



was simply an elevated materialism. It served as a 
connection between Buddhism and Taoism. These 
three religions, now called the San Kiao, are com- 
bined in the religion of China to-day. Taoism was 




SHANGHAI— A CHINESE TEMPLE. 



founded by Li-erl, who preceded Confucius, and was 
also his contemporary. He called his system Tan, 
"Reason," and taught a future state among the Genii. 
Doctor Martin states that the Taoist priests instruct 
their believers as to the best localities for building and 



94 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

for burial and that they only can secure others from 
evil spirits. Confucius on the contrary advised " to 
keep the gods at a distance," and when he had 
finished his "Sacred Books" at the age of seventy, 
he returned thanks to Shangti, the "Supreme Ruler," 
for the ability to accomplish this great work. The 
five objects of veneration now are Shangti, the earth, 
the Emperor, parents and teachers. Shangti is 
worshipped only by the Emperor. There are no 
idols at his shrine. A simple tablet bears the name 
" Supreme Ruler." A bullock is burned and the 
Monarch worships before the sacrifice. Had this 
remained uncorrupted, the idolatry taught by the 
three religions San Kiao would never have adultera- 
ted Shangti into the saint-worship of Buddhism or 
the degradation of Taoism. Confucius further taught 
the most exalted reverence for parents. All that the 
child could earn or do belonged to the father. 

]Sor did the slavery end with life. After the 
parent's death there must be lavish obsequies and 
ancestral worship. A considerable portion of eveu 
the Emperor's time is devoted to the worship of his 
ancestors. 

Buddhism, as it prevails in Japan, teaches in its 
"Diamond Classics," four great truths. 

1. That all existence, being sorrow, must be ex- 
tinguished. 



AROUND THE WORLD 95 

2. That all existence arises from attachment to 
life or desire. 

3. That existence may be extinguished by de- 
stroying desire. 

4. That this can only be accomplished by 
Nirvana. 

Buddha is a title meaning "The Enlightened." 
His name was Gautama. He lived some centuries 
B. C. Doctor Eitel gives the legends which surround 
Buddha, with the incidents mentioned in the life of 
Christ ascertained in the Gospels. He is described 
as born of a Virgin, as transfigured, as descending 
to Hell, ascending to Heaven, and with every par- 
ticular in the Saviour's life, save the crucifixion. 

Hence the skeptic attacks Christianity as a count- 
erfeit. But alas for the infidel, every particle of 
this legend is of modern origin. The most ancient 
chronicles contain no trace of this tissue of inven- 
tion, and no Buddhist history in existence can take 
rank in age with the Gospels. 

The Veda, the oldest code of Asia, taught the 
doctrines of metempsychosis and ultimate absorption 
into Brahma. His priests originated the idea of 
caste, from their desire to be identified with Deity. 

Buddhism intended to reform Brahmanism by 
abolishing caste, and declared that the means to 
annihilate self, was "the path to Nirvana." Dr. 
Eitel states that as long as 2000 years ago, Budd- 



96 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

hism "attained to the Darwinian idea of a pre-exist- 
ing spontaneous tendency to variation as the real 
cause of the origin of species, but like Darwin and 
his school, it stopped short of pointing out Him 
who originated the first commencement of that so- 
called spontaneous tendency." The student will 
find this whole subject and many other interesting 
topics, connected with "The Philosophy of Civili- 
zation," most beautifully discussed in a work bearing 
that title, published in 1889, by Jan Helenus Fer- 
guson, a native of Holland, author of "The Red 
Cross Alliance at Sea," and of a "Manual of Inter- 
national Law." Mr. Ferguson, after serving his 
government in various capacities, has, for the last 
twenty-two years, filled with great credit, the post 
of Minister Resident to China. 

Real Estate Sales in China are made through 
"middlemen," or agents. After the middleman has 
arranged the terms of the sale, the grantor executes a 
deed describing the property, and setting forth the 
terms of the contract. To this deed the middlemen, 
of whom there are sometimes several, append their 
seals as witnesses and as guarantors of title. Deeds 
are of two kinds, white (written on white paper,) and 
red (written on red paper). When real estate is 
conveyed by white deed, the transfer is not recorded 
in the government books, but remains in the name 



AROUND THE WORLD 



of the previous owner. When real estate is con- 
veyed by red deed, the sale is recorded, and tax 
receipts are thereafter issued in the name of actual 
owner. A tax of 3 per cent, is charged on the pur- 




HONG-KONG. QUEEN'S ROAD, SHANGHAI BANK AND BEACONSF1ELD ARCADE. 

chase money (payable by purchaser), for this record. 
It is the duty of the recording official to examine 
the title, and record is a guarantee thereof. In buy- 
ing land it is customary to recieve all deeds inter- 
vening between the grantor's deed and the original 
owner as recorded in the government book. 



98 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

Sales are usually made by white deed to save the 
government charge of 3 per cent. 

Upon death of the owner property is held in 
common by the family, and in case of a division, a 
larger share is given to the oldest son for maintain- 
ing the ancestral worship. 

The father has an almost unlimited power over 
his family. He can hand the son over to death and 
sell the daughter to slavery. 

This authority passes in effect to the oldest son on 
the death of the father. In a recent case a younger 
son could only be relieved from the danger of death 
by amputation of the diseased limb. But the older 
brother forbade the performance of the operation and 
the patient died. 

The administration of justice is proverbially cor- 
rupt and all the divisions of the government suffer 
from this taint. The high officials receive almost 
nothing from the State but they make immense in- 
comes by selling patronage, promotions, etc. The 
Hoppo of Canton (the customs official) receives an 
insignificant salary but has, from the other sources) 
an income of several millions a year. 

The imports and exports in foreign ships or under 
foreign flags are in the hands of Sir Robert Hart, 
an Englishman. He collects as export and import 
duties approximately 5 per cent, ad valorem on all 
goods in foreign bottoms or under foreign flags. 



AROUND THE WORLD 



99 



This he pays over honestly to the central govern- 
ment. Last year this revenue amounted to 22,000,- 




SHANGHAI— A MARKET PLACE. 

000 of customs Taels, approximately 22,000,000 of 
gold dollars. 

The Opium Dens have been so often described 
that like most of the scenes a stranger meets, the 
picture is worn thread-bare. Every scribbler thinks 
he can describe better than his predecessor a scene 



100 



FROM [N-DEPENDENCB HALL 



which really requires no description. Why paint 
anew the listless eyes and dormant forms of a set of 
opium smokers? Why tell everybody for the thous- 




CHINESE MERCHANT AND FAMILY. 



andth time that the laborers in these hot holes wear 
only a girdle round their hips and that the women 
in some of these places have rings round their 
ankles? 



AROUND THR WORLD 



101 



FROM CHINA TO CALCUTTA. 



'N the preceding pages the fares 
have already been given as far as 
Colombo. From Colombo to Cal- 
cutta the charge for first-class 
accommodation is 120 rupees — 
about $30. 

The first stopping place of the 
French steamers westward from 
Hong Kong is Saigon, 919 miles 
— sixty-three hours, 
igon is described as having 14,000 
ibitants, with 80,000 or 100,000 in 
its surroundings. It is the chief city of 
Cochin-China and the seat of the Governor-General 
of Indo-China. It is situated on an arm of the 
Dong-Nai between two other streams, and has been 
wonderfully changed within the last few years by 
France. She has filled the marshes, opened streets 
and boulevards, built a splendid palace for the 
Governor, a cathedral, a hospital, schools, an arsenal, 
stores, a botanical garden, an observatory, etc. The 
citadel dates from the reign of Gia-Long. It is the 
work of French officers who were in his employ. 




102 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 



The port is accessible to the largest ships and is 
furnished with a floating dock. (Condensed trans- 
lation of Mr. Lanier's excellent work entitled 
"L'Asie"). 

The traveller finds himself in a port forty miles 




A TAMIL MERCHANT AND HIS FAMILY. 



from the sea. The scenery has no striking features, 
save to an American. The trees are different from 
his willows, pines, cedars and shrubs. Here are the 
Banyan with its everlasting roots — reminding one 



AROUND THE WORLD 



103 



of the glorious Bacon — who drew from this tree his 
magnificent simile of the eternity of the soul. Here 
also are the towering palms reaching their heads 




SINGAPORE. A GROUP OF MALAY LADIES. 

towards Heaven, and all the flora of the tropics. 
The heat is at times oppressive — always so in the 
sun. But the breeze to-day is cheering and as one 
sits at meals the Punka keeps him in an Elysium 



AROUND THE WORLD 



105 



content. This is to us a most curious and a most 
acceptable contrivance. Strange that Yankee in- 
genuity has never transplanted the Punka, instead 
of using the ghastly and ghostly blades of a propel- 




SINGAPORE. A MALAY BAND (GAMELANE PLAYERS). 

ler to keep off flies and to keep out heat. Here sus- 
pended from the ceiling are simple arrangements of 
muslin looking for all the world like elongated 
bolsters. They are connected by a rope to the side 
cord and this pulled by a Coolie sets the whole in 
motion and makes you " cooley " indeed. 



AROUND THE WORLD 



107 



The clock at this point shows us to be only eight 
minutes short of the Antipodes of Philadelphia. 

The possessions of France in this place exceed by 
one-sixth her whole Empire in Europe. 




GROUP OF OFFICIALS OF THE LAW COURTS, JOHORE. 

Saigon is supposed to be malarial. An excursion 
of a few days leads to a very old temple in Cam- 
bodia. 

Singapore is distant from Hong Kong about 1550 
miles, and from Saigon 637 miles. The voyage from 



108 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



Saigon is generally less than forty-eight hours. The 
town is situated on an island purchased by the 
English in 1819 from the Sultan of Johore. Its 
population is about 60,000. Within a few miles of 




MALAY CHIEF AND HIS FOLLOWING. 

the equator the tropical plants of course abound. 
The sun like a regular gentleman rises and sets 
within a few minutes of six the year round. The 
streets are well laid out, and well macadamized. 
The public buildings are large and well designed. 



AROUND THE WORLD 109 

The air was balmy — hot — but not oppressive. There 
is an extensive garden a short distance from the city 
and within the garden is the nucleus of a zoological 
exhibition. The traveller is fore-warned to reject 
here as everywhere the froth and gush of the tourist 
book. He need not expect to see "tigers and all 
sorts of vermin." He may be disappointed if he ex- 
pect to sniff the "spicy breezes of Ceylon." He will 
find a curious palm, growing straight up some thirty 
feet with its radii spread exactly like a giant fan. 
The scenery of the harbor is picturesque. The boys 
in their light canoes surround the visiting ship and 
plunge into the water to catch the coins thrown by 
strangers. 

The heat on the steamers is relieved by the punkas 
kept so agreeably in motion by our friend, John 
Chinaman. 

Colombo (Ceylon) has 128,000 inhabitants. La- 
nier says the town was badly chosen as the capital of 
the island; that it is less fertile and more exposed 
to storms than other locations. 

Kandy is in the centre (20,000 inhabitants). 

Pont de Galle is to the South (population 52,000) 
and there are other smaller towns. 

The usual running time from Singapore is three 
days and twelve hours. Arrivals and departures on 
all these occasions are so arranged as to give the 



110 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

passengers as little slumber as possible. It is to be 
presumed that this produces an economy to the 
transporting company. Colombo is the well-known 
yet little known capital of Ceylon. 

It is not as near to the Equator as Singapore, but 
for the practical purposes of furnishing heat in 
December to the frozen American and food for the 
gush of the book-writer and newspaper man its 
latitude of 6° 57' north is all-sufficient. It is over 
5800 miles from London by Brindisi, the shortest 
route; and is in time five hours and nineteen 
minutes before Greenwich — ten hours and twenty 
minutes before Philadelphia. Wherever the English 
have improved, one sees fine streets and splendid 
buildings. There is not much in Ceylon to justify 
a voyage of over 10,000 miles and forty days. But 
being detained here for the Indian steamer the time 
can be agreeably occupied. You need not take long 
journeys to distant points, nor climb fearful ascents 
which produce no satisfactory result save the ability 
to boast of your prowess and to torture some poor 
soul with the degradation of not having come up to 
your standard of sight hunting. But you can in all 
quietness take rides to a fine park, a parade ground, 
the cinnamon gardens, a bridge of boats and a 
Buddhist temple. 

If your patience permits, you can visit a most un- 
inviting bazaar and market. The cinnamon bush 



112 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

has no special attraction and save when rubbed the 
wood emits no odor. 

The temple is simply another ugly curiosity. 
With great ceremony you are shown a reclining figure 
over twenty feet in length, supposed to represent 
Buddha, A statue typifies the redeemer, whom his 
worshippers expect to come. Another figure is the 
mother of Buddha; at her side is a lotus flower with 
a little Buddha on top. The sameness, the ugliness 
and the repetition of these objects make the travel- 
ler wonder that he has been stupid enough to get 
out of his vehicle and pay for being bored. The 
crowds of men running about with hardly any 
clothing, some with long hair, most of them with 
combs, the swarms of children, the panorama all 
black and swarthy, makes the sight of the ocean 
and the ozone of its air a most welcome relief. 

Colombo enjoyed, during my stay, delightful sea- 
breezes. Christmas Eve was celebrated at the hotel 
with a ball. The Episcopal church was beautifully 
adorned with lillies. All honor to the institution 
which far over wide seas and distant lands sends its 
spirit to cheer the hearts of countless thousands and 
makes even the skeptic say to his neighbor, "Merry 
Christmas." 

The Magicians of the East. — The Munchausens 
have woven such beautiful webs of fiction that it 



AROUND THE WORLD 



113 



seems cruel, perhaps dangerous, to question thern. 
Not even the cobra of the East can bite with more 
poisonous fang than the fabulist of travel when you 
question his accuracy. On one occasion it was my 




HINDOO TEMPLE, COLOMBO. 



privilege to listen to a trial between two of these 
truth-destroyers. One gave with great detail the 
marvels of a diver's skill. He had seen the bo}^ 
dive from a ship on the opposite side when a coin was 
thrown over and bring it up. His antagonist was 



114 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

not to be beaten by any such paltry feat. He told us 
of a dancing girl in India who bent backwards and 
lifted a coin from the pavement, not with hands or 
lips, but with her eye-lids. Who has not read of the 
magician of the East? That supernatural being who 
can receive without injury the bite of the most 
venomous reptile, and who can make a plant grow 
before your eyes from the seed he has planted in 
your very sight. Now the authors of these stories 
tell them all as if they were really miracles. No 
word of doubt or explanation is vouchsafed. How 
plain a tale will set them clown. Whilst you are 
enjoying a cup of tea at a kiosk your attention may 
be attracted by a half-naked swarthy native and a 
boy, who crouch near the threshold. The man 
carries a small basket about one foot in diameter 
and four inches deep. He also bears a bag large 
enough for his conjuring tools. As soon as he 
catches your eye he pulls from the bag a couple of 
toys. One of them looks like a short doll, the 
other resembles a humming top. They squeak when 
pressed. After a few hideous sounds he takes a pith 
ball and goes through the threadbare tricks of put- 
ting it under a cup; lifting the cup, the ball has 
gone ; now it is invisible, now it is under the other 
cup, now it multiplies itself to tw T o, even up to four, 
is swallowed, thrown in the air, re-appears on some 
one's nose, etc. Having exhausted the ball game 



AROUND THE WORLD 



115 



the basket is opened and out crawls a cobra, as 
hideous as deadly. But it is only a sham. The 
fangs have all been withdrawn. The toy is squeezed 
and a humming discord is heard. The snake lifts 
himself angrily, curves one half of his body like an 
S and strikes at 
the top. He is 
encouraged to re- 
peat his bites and 
sometimes the man 
is clearly struck. 
But he is uncon- 
cerned. Once the 
blood seemed to 
come, for he 
quickly sucked the 
spot and then went 
on. After this is 
through the snake 

is seized near the head and a few inches are placed in 
the basket. The reptile is tired of this farce and he 
crawls in. This is really the amusing part of the 
play, to see the cobra go back so snugly to his rest. 
Another basket is taken out of the bag and the 
mango trick is performed. During the whole of 
this the man and boy keep up a sort of perpetual 
motion and perpetual squeaking. The little basket 
is opened, a few inches of packed dirt are in the 




BULLOCK CART, COLOMBO. 



116 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

bottom. The boy inserts a stick some four inches 
high, the man throws over it a cloth, and with 
many wild words and actions from man and boy 
you are informed that something very wonderful 
will soon happen. The bag is again resorted to and 
a piece of a root about two inches long is exhibited. 
This is very carefully packed in the dirt, and the cloth 
is restored. The boy always keeps a hand under it 
apparently to hold up the stick, but really to per- 
form the miracle. More noise; the cloth is with- 
drawn and a little green leaf appears between the 
stick and the dirt, as if it had just budded. Some 
one exclaims that this is nothing; that the mango 
plant should be created. The Singalee says, " Oh, 
yes, but it must have time to grow." All is covered 
again, water is plentifully sprinkled under the cloth 
and the pow-wowing repeated. At last the muslin 
is removed and there sure enough is a mango plant 
about three inches above the ground having on it 
some eight leaves. It is quickly removed, one leaf 
torn off and given to each lady present. It is plain 
that the whole affair could have been introduced by 
either of the performers, or was more probably con- 
cealed in the cloth or beneath the dirt in a false lid 
of the basket. The water sprinkled had of course 
nothing to do with its growth but was simply to 
clean off the dirt. 

As represented by Munchausen it is a veritable 



AROUND THE WORLD 



117 



miracle, as seen by you it is a mere imposition, not 
half as clever as the old ball and cup game. The 
concluding scene was to one party at least the most 
satisfactory part of the show. The poor snake is 
again disquieted. His torturer with the left hand 




ELEPHANTS AT FERRY, NEAR KANDY. 

seizes the reptile very close to the head and presses 
the thumb so tightly on the creature's jaws that I 
wondered he survived. Then twirling the cobra 
round his neck the Indian with his right hand 
carries to each guest the basket lid to gather in his 



118 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



well-earned rupees, his eyes glittering all the while 
not very much unlike the poor snake's. 

Fruits, Etc. — It seems strange to find in these 
warm countries no grapes, no peaches, no melons 




FRUIT SELLERS. COLOMBO. 



like those of the United States. Even oranges 
seem scarce. The milk is weak ; the butter unpal- 
atable ; the meats tough and poor. The handsome 
little buffalo oxen, with their pretty colors, small 
horns and curious humps, trot about like horses, 
but when worn out they make sad beef. The 



120 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



viands one sees in the markets leave him no appetite 
for the table. 

The breadfruit tree, the cordaman, pepper bushes 
and palms, abound. They tell of curious tailor bird 




SKINNERS ROAD. COLOMBO. 



nests ; but the spicy breezes are all poetry. Bananas 
and pine-apples are plentiful ; salad is rarely served ; 
tomatoes are scarce. 

During Christmas week the banks and nearly all 
the shops were closed for four days. 



122 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

Kaxdy. — It is said that this is a favorite shelter 
from the heat; but Colombo needed no such refuge 
the Christmas season of 1894 ; the wind was very 
pleasant every day and on two nights was quite 
cool. The houses are all constructed for hot weather; 
there are no fire places ; everything is open doors, 
latticed, etc. The bedroom I occupied had no win- 
dow sash, and the outside shutters were arranged 
with blinds. It seems very strange to a Philadel- 
phian that he should in Christmas week keep care- 
fully out of the sun, wear his thinnest summer gar- 
ments, lounge all day and sleep at night under 
a mosquito bar. 

Kandy is 76 miles from Colombo, has a Gover- 
nor's palace and a fine library. Botanical Gardens 
are near and Delada's Temple was built for Buddha's 
Tooth. 

There is a fine sanitarium at Neura Elliya at an 
altitude of 2600 feet, 50 miles from Kandy. 

These things may be credited, but the " wild ele- 
phants in herds" and "bamboos that grow one half 
inch every hour " (2 feet a day — 730 feet in a year); 
we may be pardoned by our friend the story-teller 
for rejecting. 

In place of wandering over the island to gather 
up fables, let the tourist rest his weary brain and 
gaze out quietly, as he may by the hour, at this 
beautiful harbor of Colombo, with its blue sky and 



124 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



bluer water, bearing on its calm surface the huge 
ships which carry to and from these shores so many 
precious cargoes and more precious lives. All this 
like a quiet, natural, but lovely picture is spread out 




ELEPHANT DRAWING COCOANUTS, BATTICALOA. CEYLON. 

directly in front of the Oriental Hotel, and seems to 
condemn the spirit that casts one hasty look upon 
the scene and turns from it forever. 

As our German friends say "so many a student 
crosses the Rhine a gosling and comes back a goose." 



AROUND THE WORLD 125 

Adam's Peak is pointed like a loaf of sugar 
and overlooks all the neighboring mountains. Ac- 
cording to the legend, " When Buddha descended 
upon the earth in a frightful tempest, he rested 
upon this island, drove out the evil spirits and es- 
tablished his residence here. He proclaimed his 
gospel Nirvana and taught men to seek happiness 
by living without desire and by dying without fear. 
In ascending to Heaven he left not only a handful 
of hair, but also at the special prayer of the King, 
the print of his foot. This, called the miraculous 
sripada, is found at the precise spot where for the 
last time his foot rested on earth." 

It is needless to add that for more than 2000 
years pilgrims have nocked to this spot. Eight 
hundred years ago a temple was erected, and of 
course a basin was placed there to receive the offer- 
ings of the devotees. There is some conflict of 
statement as to the footprint. The Arabs claim 
that an angel carried Adam to this peak. The 
Chinese assert that the mark was made by Iwan-Koo ; 
the Portugese contend for St. Thomas, and a 
Persian poet has bestowed the honor on Alexander 
the Great. 

The celebrated tooth was in its day the subject of 
fierce battles. In the 16th century it is said that 
the Archbishop of Goa reduced it to powder in 
a mortar in the presence of all the court, and threw 



126 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

the dust to the winds of the sea, vet the faithful 
insist that the tooth still exists intact. 

Mr. Russell narrates the exhibition of it to the 
Prince of Wales in 1876. The golden box contain- 
ing the relic, studded with blazing jewels, was 
placed upon a silver table. A priest opened it. It 
contained another box. The second being opened 
disclosed a third, and so on to the fifth, all of jew- 
eled gold. At last the tooth was seen reposing 
on a lotus leaf of gold. The priest, trembling with 
emotion, exhibited the tooth to the Prince, who 
having duly examined it. retired. 

From Colombo to Calcutta required a week. The 
steamer stopped at Pondicherry for a few hours, at 
Madras for half a day. 

Pondicherry is governed by the French. It has 
broad streets, some fine government buildings and a 
botanical garden. 

Madras boasts of larger buildings and a better 
garden. 

Calcutta is not situated on the coast, but is some 
eighty miles and odd up the Hooghly River. The 
navigation is difficult : one cannot go at night and 
must stop in daytime for the tide. We anchored off 
the mouth of the river at 2.30 A. M.. but did not 
reach Calcutta until 1 1 A. M. of the next day, say 
thirtv-three hours. 



AROUND THE WORLD 



127 



ACROSS INDIA. 

Calcutta, Lat, 22° N. 

Time, Philadelphia, 12 noon, Calcutta, 11 P. M. 

HIS city is in Lower Bengal. It 
has a population of 980,000. It 
was built in the 17th century and 
fortified in the 18th century by 
Clyde. It is mentioned as one of 
the great ports of India, and is the 
capital and seat of government. 

The approach by the Hooghly 
River is described by the inhabi- 
tants as much worse than it was 
found during the voyage. In the 
city we were informed that 2000 
years ago the sea swept up to the base of the Hima- 
layas. This word, by the way, is honored with three 
different pronunciations. The English and the 
Americans pronounce it with the accent on the lay. 
But the Orientals contend that this is wrong. Some 
call it TLimsL-lay-yas, others E-ma-loy-as. 

After the sea retired the mountains seem to have 
resolved to return the compliment of an invasion 
and for years the wash from these hills has brought 
down avalanches of sand and drift which have been 




128 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

poured into the water and have gradually encroached 
upon the Bay of Bengal by enlarging the continent. 
The result has been to make the mouth of the 
Hooghly a most treacherous entrance. It is con- 
stantly on the change. In the open channel of this 
week there may be poured in seven days a little 
mountain of sand. Nor is this the worst. Should 
a vessel strike she can never hope to be relieved by 
tide or tugs. She begins instantly to sink in the 
sand. We passed a ship which was buried far down 
and had sunk so rapidly in the quick debris that 
only one of her crew escaped. 

The climate is represented as very good for four 
months, including the winter. But in May the rains 
set in. In summer the thermometer, I was told, 
rises to 100 degrees and remains there. My inform- 
ant said that the nights were intolerable. Earth- 
quakes occasionally come, but they seem to be almost 
harmless. The shakes here are not horizontal ; they 
lift you up and suddenly let you down. 

Fort William is a fine structure. The Post office 
is a grand building. Near it was the famous Black 
Hole. Then there are the Government House, the 
Town Hall, the palace of the ex-King of Oudh, St. 
Paul's Cathedral, other churches, the University, the 
Indian Museum, etc. 

There are also statues of Sir James Ontram, Lord 
Bentinck and others. 



AROUND THE WORLD 129 

The Zoological Gardens boast of some very large 
tigers and some beautiful birds. The Eden gardens 
were the gift of two ladies of that name. 

Notwithstanding the wealth of the city there 
seems to be no proper sanitary law in force. The 
streets are, in the main, good turnpikes, but all mat- 
ters dropped percolate to some extent before removal 
and the subsequent sprinkling only seems to perpet- 
uate the disagreeable odor. 

The hotels are strangely kept. At our hostelry — 
very large and grand — a wide marble hall separated 
bed-rooms from the dining-room. In this beautiful 
passage were tables used for prepariag vegetables, 
oil stoves and a kitchen. 

The tiles were stained very black and the whole 
had a strange appearance. 

Guide books tempt the traveller, as usual, to visit 
many places he might well pass. First of these 
coming westward is Benares. It is twenty-seven 
hours from Calcutta. The sleeping cars are not the 
subject of extortionate extra charge as with us. It 
is true that they are not supplied with bedding, nor 
soap nor towels. The other conveniences are how- 
ever given. 

The first-class car accommodates four, the second 
class, five persons. There are no chairs. Sofas run 
along the side of the car and a cushion can be let 
down making two comfortable beds in each row. 



130 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

For a few hours a man could rest well enough on 
the lounge. But for all night each passenger pro- 
vides a blanket and a pillow. These cost $1.75 and 
remain his property. It is usual to have a male 
servant. He carries all luggage, beds, etc. included, 
spreads your blanket and makes you comfortable. 
His fare and compensation seem almost trifling. 
His passage all the w T ay from Calcutta to Bombay 
is about $6. The return fare is even less, $4.50. 
His wages are only about thirty cents a day, and 
out of this he provides his own living. He pleads 
for some warm clothing. Two dollars and a half 
suffices to supply this, so that a trifle over $20 will 
pay for him and the pillow and blankets. When you 
put against this our extortion of $5 a night with the 
top lid clown on you unless you pay $5 more you 
conclude that India is more economical. 

The first-class ticket from Calcutta to Bombay 
covering about 1800 miles is $36.. 

It is said that there are 2000 temples and shrines 
at Benares, and that the city is the oldest in the 
world. I see no signs of great antiquity. The few 
temples one's stomach permits him to see disgust 
him very thoroughly. Gateways, portals, altars, all 
the associations of a temple vanish as you approach. 
Of course there is an entrance. A few feet off on some 
sacred pavement which you must not touch is a doll 
seated on the floor, representing nothing human, 



AROUND THE WORLD 



131 



tawdrily dressed, hideous and repulsive to the last 
degree. You are told that this is a god. Men offer 
to it little garlands of flowers and then as a blessing 
present the buds to you calling baksheesh. One of 




BENARES— VIEW OF TEMPLE AND GHATS ON BANKS OF GANGES. 



these hideous holes had gilded spires; they call it 
the Golden Temple. Another is the Cow Temple, 
still another is the Durga Temple. The attraction 
there was to see the monkeys. But even this failed. 



132 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

I counted three on the roof and two on the ground, 
ugly and dirty. Yet whilst trying in my humble 
way to find relief in looking at a poor monkey, two 
wretches kneeled in front of me, and before I could 
realize the situation they pulled out of their bags 
two boas, four cobras and a handful of scorpions 
which they exhibited for my delectation. Nothing 
was left save retreat. But this is difficult. An army 
of men, women and children surround you. Their 
cries are stunning. Yet out of the din it was sweet 
to hear in English, " May the good God bless you, 
sir." 

A Rajah's palace, the hospital founded by the 
Prince of Wales, and some other buildings are 
pleasant to the eye. But the rest seems to be a 
rough collection of dirty, squalid houses, unworthy 
the name of residences. 

These are the afflictions brought upon the ignor- 
ant traveller by his faith in guide-books. 

Up dirty, narrow streets, then turning into a still 
smaller passage, through noxious odors, you come to a 
railing about four feet square around a hole. It looks 
like a well. They burnt some paper, let some em. 
bers drop down-down-many feet. Then, they ex- 
plained that this for years was the spot where the 
fanatic threw himself to death. As there is nothing 
of this in the guide book, which contains all the 



AROUND THE WORLD 



133 



Munchausen fables, the story is merely stated for 
the benefit of the next Gulliver. 

The Ghats are stone stair-cases leading to the river. 
You descend some twenty steps, take a chair on a 




RESERVOIR AND GARDEN IN THE CHOWMAHLA PALACE. HYDERBAD, DECCAN. 

large cranky boat and the men row you a mile or 
so up and down the Ganges. The view is pictur- 
esque. The river bank is over fifty feet high in 
some places. Every square or so the stone stair-case 
appears. Sometimes it is in a straight line, again 



134 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

it curves. On the bank appear temples, houses of 
the wealthy, etc. The temples have all the pecu- 
liar spire of India. For some forty feet it ascends 
in a straight line with four sides ; recesses appear in 
the work. Then it comes to a point somewhat like 
a candle extinguisher. The carvings are quaint. 

At the foot of the bank there is a shore way along 
the river varying from twenty to fifty feet in width. 
This is filled with narrow planks leading to the 
water and sometimes you see a small screen. Men, 
women and children bathe here promiscuously, save 
that there is one place reserved for widow's and an- 
other for high castes. There are no bathing houses. 
The men generally go into the water with an apron 
girdle. The women are completely covered with 
muslin. They descend into the water but a few 
steps. I saw only one man swimming. When 
waist deep they dip up the water with their hands, 
pray, and gently wash or pat first the forehead and 
then other parts. It appears to be a religious bath. 
For the cleansing of the body it would seem not to 
be very effectual. I have never seen people bathing 
in such dirt. A short distance from the shore the 
boat passes through hundreds of dirty green subs- 
tances floating on the surface. In two places water 
descends as from a sewer ; and one woman threw in 
several baskets of dirt. Here are the cremations ; 
we saw four piles on fire. The bodies are brought 



AROUND THE WORLD 



135 



down tied up in plain material. The red I was told 
was the female and white the male color. A pile of 
sticks is built about knee high, the body is placed 
on the top, then some more wood is placed over it. 




CREMATION GHAT AT BENARES. 



The whole being about six feet long, four feet deep 
and four feet wide. Straw is ignited by the princi- 
pal mourner and thrust under the wood. A son 
was pointed out as performing this rite. The cre- 
9 



136 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

mation lasts about two hours and then all is thrown 
into the sacred River. The chief mourner stays in 
seclusion for ten days and then gives a feast. The 
scene on the river is full of the curious but destitute 
of the cheerful. 

Lucknow. — The journey from Benares to Luck- 
now (202 miles) is covered in eight and a half hours. 
The land seems to be better tilled and more attract- 
ive than it appears near Benares. Cotton, tobacco, 
sugar and all cereals are raised in India. With the 
exception of the wild cactus and tropical trees the 
appearance of the soil is much the same as in other 
countries. The railroad and stations are all English. 
The residences are almost universally one story 
high and according to the rank ot the occupants 
are squalid huts or stately palaces. Lunch and 
dinner are served at stopping places but in rather a 
meagre style. The waiters hardly speak a word of 
English and the traveler's lot "is not a happy one." 

Lucknow is a very handsome city. It is situated 
on the river Gomtee, which has the unpleasant 
quality of submerging a suburb when it is so pleased: 
A tablet marked a terrible rise so recently as Sep- 
tember, 1894, and other tablets preserve an unpleas- 
ant record. There are many tine drives, splendid 
residences, grand mosques and scenes of great his- 
torical interest. 



AROUND THE WORLD 



137 



Amongst the houses, the Martiniere, as it is called, 
may probably rank as the largest and oddest in the 
world. It was erected by General Claude Martin, 




GATEWAY OF THE PALACE OF LIGHT, LUCKNOW. 



who was born in Lyons, 1735. He served in the 
French army in India with great distinction, rose 
from the ranks to high command and was taken 
prisoner in 1761. He was engaged by the Savvab 



138 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

of Oudh to make some surveys, settled in Lucknow, 
opened a bank, became immensely rich, built this 
curious palace and on his death left the bulk of his 
estate to charities. The building is now used as a 
school. It has nothing to attract save its enormous 
size. A critic condemns it as a "fantastic specimen 
of architecture adorned with minute stuccos and 
enormous lions, with lamps instead of eyes, etc." 

The Sepoys used this place as a fort in the 
mutiny of 1857. Very different from this are the 
Mosques. The Immambara (house of the Prophet) 
in the Muchee Bhawun, the Hosseinabad Immam- 
bara, the Jumma Musjid, etc. They are beautiful, 
white structures, all standing inside of tasty enclo- 
sures and of large proportions. The architecture is 
what we call Moorish. The floors are marble. 
They all have silver stair-cases inside, of six steps, 
some leading to a seat whereon we may imagine a 
monarch sat, They are all studded with beautiful 
lamps and candle stands six or seven feet high for 
other lights. 

The Mosque first named was built in a time of 
famine to provide for the starving. It cost £1,000,- 
000. The length of the centre room is 163 feet, its 
breadth 53 feet and its height 49 feet, The length 
of the building is 303 feet, its breadth 163 feet and 
its height 63 feet. These large proportions are all 
arranged with perfect harmony. 



AROUND THE WORLD 



139 



The Hosseinabad consists of two rectangular en- 
closures. It was erected by the third King of Oude. 
The Immambara here is divided lengthwise into 
three rooms. The central room contains the tombs 




LUCKNOW, THE -RESIDENCY. 



of Mohammed Ali Shah and his mother. The 
crown and other insignia are exhibited. There is a 
gilded dome. The floor is paved with black and 
white marble. In the centre of the square is a 



140 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

model of the famous Taj Mahal of Agra. It con- 
tains the tomb of the King's daughter. 

Jumma Musjid is the great Mosque of Lucknow. 
It boasts of lofty and massive pinnacles. Its walls 
are enriched with arabesques. 

Whilst these structures must be accepted as fault- 
less in their way, there is yet a sameness about 
them. Who sees one sees all. Of far more interest 
to the Anglo-Saxon are the scenes here which are 
full of historical interest. 

Chiefest of these is the Residency. It is now in 
ruins. It was built by a Nawab about the year 1800 
for the British Resident at his court. It is one of the 
higher spots in the city. There are several large 
buildings near to it. One a dining room, another 
a doctor's house. There seems to be a cluster of 
buildings. The reader knows of the mutiny which 
broke out at Lucknow May 30, 1857. The Resi- 
dency was besieged from June 30 to September 25. 
Cannonades, minings, assaults were all resorted to 
with overwhelming odds in favor of the mutineers. 
Every attack was repulsed, but the buildings threat- 
ened to fall. The walls are honeycombed with the 
marks of the shells. When at last Havelock and 
succor came the brave forces of 1692 had been re- 
duced to 979. General Neill fell during the action 
on the last morning. 

As usual" In those cities there are the old quarters 



142 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

and the bazaars. They are all alike. A passage 
hardly wide enough for one vehicle and the crowd 
of pedestrians, is lined with two story buildings — 
some frame, some mud and some plastered. These 
are thronged with hard-working artizans and patient 
sellers. At one spot a score of shoemakers, further 
on workers in brass and other metals, embroiderers 
of cloth, silk, muslin and a multitude of avocations. 
The workshop, factory and shop may be one room, 
no bigger than a large kennel, say eight by eight. 
Here are sometimes two men hard at work. Seve- 
eal sewing machines were seen. Behind is a room 
of the same size where the family reside. Would 
free trade introduce to the United States this life for 
the American workman ? 

To the credit of Lucknow it should be recorded 
that her bazaars were clean and orderly. No foul 
odors here salute the visitor. The climate in this 
section is very pleasant for half the year, but the 
rains bring intolerable heat and the snakes come 
out to get dry. 

A traveling companion seems in dread of hostile 
visitations even now. He examines his room be- 
fore retiring and puts his shoes on a chair to avoid 
making the acquaintance of a scorpion in the morn- 
ing. Caution is a useful friend but fear is a cruel 
tyrant. 

This hotel (The Imperial) is very large and is well 



ABOUND THE WORLD 143 

kept. There are no second stories. The centre 
building and its long wings have wide arched cor- 
ridors in front, all fireproof. The bedrooms are of 
good size. In the rear is a bathroom. It is sup- 
plied with toilet table and washstand. There is no 
bathtub, no water closet. In place of the latter is 
the old fashioned commode. The bath is a curious 
arrangement. A space about six feet square is plas- 
tered and around it is built a little wall about ankle 
deep. Within are four earthen jars full of water 
and a large bathing pan. On the level of the floor 
is a little hole out of which the water runs. Back 
doors admit the servant who comes unbidden. 

Cawxpore. — Two hours on the rail take you from 
Lucknow to Cawnpore. Around this town will 
cluster for all ages the sentiment which commands 
sympathy for suffering and indignation against 
cruelty. The events which make it memorable 
have been too often written and are too well 
known to need repetition. Whilst the greater part 
of the soldiers were at church, their principal build- 
ing was seized by the mutineers. A miserable en- 
trenchment was held by General Wheeler and his 
heroes for twenty-one days, against a continuous fire. 
The well, from whence the water needed by the be- 
sieged was to be drawn, stood outside the entrench- 
ment, and the supply was only to be secured at im- 



144 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

minent peril of life. The presence of a number of 
women and children in the English camp doubtless - 
induced the General to listen to an offer to transport 
all in safety, if the place were surrendered. Boats 
were provided and the whole camp was marched to 
the Suttee Chowra Ghat, a landing place on the 
Ganges about a mile from the entrenchment. Nana 
had arranged his plans with minuteness of atrocious 
detail. The boats were all roofed with straw, some 
men were detailed to set fire to the boats on the 
raising of a flag, others were ambushed on the banks 
to rake the barges with their guns, and as if this 
was not enough, cavalry was detailed down the shore 
to cut off any who might escape. At the given 
signal the matches were applied, the fusilade com- 
menced and all were slaughtered save two soldiers, 
Thompson and Murphy, and a band of women and 
children, who were hurried to the town and confined 
until the approach of succor when they were bar- 
barously murdered and many thrown down the well. 
The traveller sees the well, the lines of the old camp, 
and the bullet marks at the wharf. The names of 
the unfortunates are preserved on tombs and on 
brass tablets in the beautiful church. In the Park 
there is a glorious figure of an angel in marble. It 
was designed by Baron Marochetti, and is surrounded 
by a chaste gothic screen. At the foot of this mound 
are the tombs of many who fell in the mutiny. 



146 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

The Ghat referred to as the place of embarkation 
was a brown building where Hindoo women disrobed 
before bathing in the Ganges. Along the river 
banks are still marked the spots where the unfortu- 
nate widows went through the rite of Suttee upon 
the funeral piles of their husbands. If England 
and Christianity had done nothing more for hu- 
manity than the abolition of this horrid rite — the 
enemies of both should rise up and proclaim their 
greatness. 

Agra is one of the most attractive cities in India. 
It is nearly six hours by rail from Cawnpore. The 
streets are generally very wide and well turnpiked. 
The bazaar has a broader thoroughfare and is more 
inviting than the rival cities. Many of the houses 
in the narrow quarter have second stories, with 
marble verandas. The city is on the right bank of 
the Jumma. On approaching it attention is attracted 
by the large Fort. Its walls are seventy feet high, 
with a circuit of a mile and a half. It is built of 
red sandstone, has huge towers and presents an im- 
posing appearance. There is a drawbridge, a deep, 
wide moat, a huge gatewa} r , and a long, curved as- 
cent which strikes the mind as a pretty serious 
obstacle to an assaulting party. After reaching the 
top of tins hill and passing an inner portal, you are 
in the palace buildings. These monarchs must have 



AROUND THE WORLD 147 

enjoyed the pleasures of this life. A lake, it was 
said, was in one of the squares. It is now filled up. 
Here, in excellent preservation, are a hall of public 
audience, a hall of private audience, each with its 
throne, a court 500 feet by 350, surrounded by 
arcades, many corridors, the Queen's bed and bath- 
rooms, etc. All of these are of white marble and 
are beautifully carved. It is said that here 500 
people were lodged. From one of the battlements 
could be seen in a court yard frequent exhibitions of 
wild beasts. The Harem, the grated windows, the 
private apartments of the illustrious Arjumand are 
all pointed out. Here too, alas, is shown the place 
where Shah Jahan, who had ruled over all this with 
so much glory, was confined after being dethroned 
by his son. 

The oldest parts of the structure date from the 
reign of Akbar. The inscription over the main 
archway of the Jumma Masjid (Great Mosque) shows 
that it was built by Shah Jahan, commenced in 1639 
and finished in 1644. During this period he was 
also engaged upon the tomb of his wife. He was 
deposed by Aurangzeb, who built the public audience 
hall above mentioned in 1685. 

This large pile embraced a small city, a palace and 
a fort. Though possessing no strength as against 
modern artillery it must have been originally re- 
garded as a mighty stronghold — the seat and the 
wutness of great power. 



148 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

The Taj Mahal is a beautiful white marble 
tomb erected by Shah-Jahau in honor of his wife 
Armajund. The carvings are very chaste and the 
entire pile does credit to the virtues of the wife and 
the love of the husband. It was commenced shortly 
after the death of the Queen, 1629, but was not 
finished until 1648. It has been so rapturously 
described by scribblers that it seems difficult to pre- 
sent it in its true colors. It is not "a dream." It 
does not "battle description." It is in appearance 
exactly like a mosque. Not so large as the largest, 
nor by any means a small building. Like the tomb 
of Akbar and other illustrious persons, it is not pro- 
truded upon a highway. You enter a gateway 
which is itself a handsome and large building. You 
drive a few hundred feet, then on foot enter another 
imposing gateway structure and find yourself 700 
feet from the Taj. These distances are not from 
measurements save by the eye. The grounds stretch 
out as if you were in a Park. In front is a broad 
stone walk divided by a shallow sheet of water with 
ends of pipes at regular distances, as if for fountains. 
On both sides are flowers. The walk half way is 
broken by an ascent of a few marble steps and you 
are at the side of a large basin of water. Passing this 
you descend again and thus you approach the tomb. 
Its size may be understood when you imagine a 
building of excellent proportions whose dome is 



AROUND THE WORLD 149 

eighty feet above the roof. The crescent was esti- 
mated by a gentleman at my side to be 180 feet from 
the ground. A writer calls it 243 feet high. The mau- 
soleum is in depth and width 1 86 feet. Inside is a 
large octagonal room. Two tombs — one of the Em- 
peror, the other of his wife, are shown on the floor. 
But they are not the tombs. On leaving you are 
invited to descend to the basement and there in- 
deed are the resting places of the loving husband 
and the faithful wife. Many panels are inlaid witli 
agates and colored marbles, but white is the pre- 
vailing color. The main building stands on a pla- 
teau; at each corner is a marble tower, and a mina- 
ret, 137 feet high. There is a mosque on each side. 
A florid writer states that this structure cost £2,000,- 
000, and that 20,000 men were employed on it for 
twenty-two years. He adds that " while gazing on 
the Taj men let their cigars go out and ladies drop 
their fans without noticing the loss." Let all men 
reading these statements draw the veil of charity 
over the delusions of the gusher. 

It is related of Armajund that a slave was brought 
before her w T ho had attempted to alienate the love of 
the Emperor. The Empress drew a dagger as if to slay 
her rival, but then inserting the point in the ground 
and breaking off the blade, she bade the offender to 
note the vengeance of a Queen. 

The Pearl Mosque is near to the Fort. It has 



150 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 



three domes of marble with gilded spires. It was 
built by Shah-Jahan in 1654. There are no pearls 
in it and a traveller near me who asked " where the 
pearls were" seemed disappointed. 

The tombs of Akbar, of Itimad-ud Dowlah and 
many other places are worthy of a visit simply to 
while away time ; but would not justify much labor 
or expense for their inspection. 



ELHI is six hours by rail from Agra. 
It strikes the visitor as a more 
thriving and imposing city than 
Agra. Approaching towards the 
west appearances improve. Shah- 
Jahan ruled from 1637 to 1658. 
He commenced this place in 1648. 
Ten years later the Palace Fort 
was constructed. It has a circuit 
of one mile and. a half. The walls 
of the city extend five miles and a 
half. The principal entrance to 
the Fort is by the Lahore Gate. 
It has a strong resemblance to the 
citadel at Agra. High walls of red turrets, bat- 
tlements, moat, double portals, etc. The Palace 
contains beauties of marble and of gilding one 
does not find elsewhere. There is a vaulted hall, 
375 feet long, which has been pronounced "the 




^ahMasjid D£ 








10 



I.)!* FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

noblest entrance to any existing place." There are 
the large basins for fountains, the Private Audience 
Hall, the apartments for females, their bathing- 
rooms, the King's bed room, his bath room, etc. All 
these are of white marble, most of them beautifully 
carved with fine traceries of vines, flowers, etc. The 
Private Audience Hall is open on all sides, the roof 
being supported by square columns beautifully in- 
laid. In the centre formerly stood the famous Pea- 
cock throne. Nothing now remains of it, save the 
marble steps and platform. It is described as hav- 
ing been a chair of solid gold five feet long, four 
feet broad, backed with precious stones, arranged 
like a peacock's tail, glittering with rubies, sapphires 
and diamonds. Some report the ceiling as silver, 
others say it was of gold. It is estimated to have 
been worth $30,000,000, far too valuable to endure. 
All this has been carried off by the spoiler. The 
large marble stone in the centre of the King's bath 
was used for shampooing or massaging the royal 
body. The baths are all beneath the level of the 
room, about five feet deep, and six to eight feet 
square; the supply and exit passages are still here. 
On the corner panels of the Audience Hall is in- 
scribed in Persian, " If there be a Paradise on earth, 
it is this, it is this," reminding one of Moore's cele- 
brated eulogy on Cashmere 



ABOUND THE WORLD 153 

" For if this world discloses 
Delights unknown elsewhere, 
'Tis at the Feast of Roses 
Within thy Vale Cashmere." 

There is a very beautiful Pearl Mosque near the 
Fort, and one of the largest mosques in India, per- 
haps in the world is within a short distance. It is 
the Jumma Masjid. It stands on an eminence and 
is reached by a number of steps. These are studded 
with beggars — men, women, children — many of 
them sellers of pigeons. The court is 450 feet 
square, and it is said that it will contain 50,000 
worshipers. The arched ways at one end are cov- 
ered and the ceilings are beautifully carved. Three 
domes of white marble and two minarets at the 
front adorn the roof. A little house at the end of 
one of the long corridors has gilded doors. These 
are opened and the attendant reverently entering, 
shows you in succession sheets of the Koran written 
by Mahomet's son-in-law, a bound volume contain- 
ing similar copies all in Arabic, a slipper of Ma- 
homet, his footprint on a stone resembling agate, 
and lastly in a phial, about three inches long, a 
hair of the prophet. This is one single hair, 
slightly auburn. 

Kootub Minar is about eleven miles from Delhi. 
The road takes you past ruins of several cities, forts, 
many tombs, mosques, etc. During the whole ride 



154 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

something dilapidated is always in sight, at times 
you can count half a dozen domes, all going to de- 
cay. The Emperor Humayon's tomb is less than 
half way to Kootub Minar. It was built by his 
widow and it is pleasant to note that at Delhi and 
at Agra the memories of a deceased wife and a de- 
parted husband have been touchingly appreciated 
by the survivor. This structure is in the middle of 
a platform and it is over 100 feet square. The plat- 
form is ornamented with arches and has four flights 
of steps. The mausoleum is of red stone inlaid 
with marble. The floor is of the same material 
and as usual there is a marble dome. There is a 
variety, but at the same time a uniformity in these 
buildings. They soon become tiresome except to 
the enthusiast. 

The Kootub Minar is also spelled Kutab Minar. 
It is a curious column. Its outside is grooved and 
it looks like an enormous Japanese umbrella closed. 
It is reported as 238 feet high, 47 feet diameter at 
the base, upper diameter 9 feet. Fergusson reports 
the Kutab and its surroundings as "by far the most 
interesting group of ruins in India, or perhaps in 
any part of the world." The qualification of the 
latter part of the compliment is very proper. It is 
reported as dating from 1200 to 1220. It is situated 
near the centre of a large square. Behind it are ruins 
of three arches, the centre about thirty feet in height.. 



AROUND THE WORLD 



155 



At the side on a slight elevation are four more 
arches, the centre being about the same height as 
the first series. The walls of these entrances are 
nearly nine feet thick. Around the sides are corri- 




TOMB OF THE EMPEROR HUMAYON, DELHI. 

dors and in front of the arches is an iron pillar 
about twenty-two feet high. The lowest diameter 
is sixteen feet. It was erected by Rajah Dhava and 
its history is recorded in cut Sanskrit A. D. 319. 
We were told all these details and that the square 



156 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

referred to was called Butkliana. No great depend- 
ence is to be placed upon guides. But if this infor- 
mation be correct, then according to Fergusson 
these pillars "are among the few examples to be 
found in India that seem to be overloaded with 
ornament, there not being one inch of plain surface 
from the capital to the base ; still the ornament is 
so sharp and so beautifully executed, and the effect 
in their present state of decay and ruin so pictur- 
esque that it is very difficult to find fault with what 
is so beautiful." The same remark maybe applied 
to the arches and to columns in the rear. A gen- 
tleman called my attention to the fact that many of 
the carvings represented ropes and bells. 

I said that the Kutab resembled in its fiutings a 
huge umbrella closed but' uncovered. The shaft 
has twenty-four indentations or projections, as one 
may please to call them, on its face. ' These are 
caused by twelve curves, and twelve angles, all pro- 
jecting outwards. The prevailing color is red choc- 
olate. There are four balconies or stories. From 
the ground to the first overhanging balcony there 
are five upright rows of columns carved at top and 
bottom several feet deep. It is said that the inside 
steps number 379. To walk around the base re- 
quired eighty-six paces. 

I was told before I went there that it was the 
most wonderful sight in the world, and that before 



AROUND THE WORLD 



157 



the erection of the Eiffel tower it was the highest 
structure known. Is it a pity that the imagination 
of some persons is so very elastic ? or is it best that 
they should enjoy these beliefs ? 




KOOTUB MINAR, DELHI. 



On the return journey one sees an observatory 
and a large equatorial amongst the hundreds of 
ruins. Some idea of the importance of Delhi may be 
gathered from the following list of these structures : 



158 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



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164 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL, 




'EYPORE is over ten hours by rail 
from Delhi. The wayside lunch and 
dinner are better than at some places 
farther East. But the wretched hurry, 
ringing of bells, etc., destroy all com- 
fort. 

Jeypore is the seat of a Mahara- 
jah. We were told that Maha meant 
great, so that a Maharajah is superior in rank to a 
rajah. 

Thirty-eight different castes in this blessed coun- 
try look down each upon the other with supreme 
contempt, Effigies of all are exhibited in the mu- 
seum here. The waxen figures present striking- 
contrasts. Two of them strangely enough have 
shirt collars. Their brethren must regard them with 
peculiar horror. This city has much finer buildings 
and more of them than Benares, Lucknovv, Cawn- 
pore, Agra or Delhi. 

The wide streets are lined with houses two and 
three stories high, painted a pretty pink or choco- 
late, traced with white arabesques. Thousands of 
pigeons and some monkeys are seen enjoying their 
freedom. The Hindu to his credit be it said, re- 
spects the birds. There is a fine park with the 
usual specimens of trees, flowers, peacocks and other 
birds, etc. The tigers have a separate establish- 



163 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 

ment at a distance. When news reaches the Maha- 
rajah of a tiger being seen near a settlement his men 
are sent out and the animal is captured. Some- 
times a net is spread across a path into which he is 
driven. Sometimes a pit is dug, straw and a goat 
placed on the top. When snared the animal is 
starved until very weak ; he is then chained and 
placed in his cage ; occasionally a cub is caught and 
Ave were told marvelous accounts of the little fellows 
being raised to tameness and maturity, walking 
about like cats, suffering children to tease them, etc. 
However this may be, it is certain that the leopard 
is tamed so as to assist his master in catching ante- 
lopes. It is quite comical to see the beast seated 
upright by the side of his keeper, directly on the 
highway. The tigers here are fine specimens, but 
not as large as those at Calcutta. 

The factories where baser metals are inlaid with 
gold, where polished tiles are made, fine work done 
on metals, cloths, clay, etc., are all worthy of visits. 

The most skilled workman receives but one rupee 
(about twenty-five cents) a day. 

The palace is a fine buildinjf. You pass through 
several gates and then through two court yards con- 
taining residences for hundreds of eunuchs and 
others before you emerge upon the main edifice. It 
is very high and surmounted with the usual orna- 
ments. At the side are a large audience hall and 



168 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

an extensive banqueting room. In the rear are 
beautiful gardens with numerous fixtures for foun- 
tains, illuminations, etc. It is said that these cost 
a very large sum, but there is a sameness about it 
all suggestive of other places. Chatsworth differs 
from Kew, and both from Hyde Park. Versailles, 
Berlin, Vienna, Madrid, Boston, New York, Phila- 
delphia, each has a distinct type. But here with 
very slight variations all are alike. White marble 
abounds, but is rarely allowed to stand upon its own 
native beauty. It is not only cut, carved, honey- 
combed, perforated, screened, twisted and tortured, 
but it is painted, inlaid, gilded and bedizened like 
the women, who put huge rings in their nostrils, 
metal ornaments through their lips, bracelets on 
their arms, anklets on their legs and rings on their 
toes. 

A school of Art contains a number of boys learn- 
ing to draw, and to work on metal. It has some fine 
specimens of handicraft. 

The hotels here and thus far all through India 
exhibit a delicious confidence in the honesty of 
mankind. The few fastenings which one finds 
hardly deserve the name, and a Cooley can rush in 
upon you ad libitum. I pleaded last night for a key. 
It was promised but came not. Even the latch 
would not catch upon the opposite iron and the wind 
blew open the door. Nothing remained but to prop 



170 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 

a chair against it, and trust to Providence. Not to 
speak of men, the danger from dogs or other animals, 
is disturbing. Hogs and jackals circulate at liberty. 

Permits are required here for visits to the palaces, 
gardens, etc., but they are freely granted. At the 
hotel there are printed blanks which require simply 
your name, date, etc. The Cooley bears the paper 
to the proper person and brings the permit. 

The present Maharajah is a wise and liberal 
Prince; he has founded schools, & hospital, etc. The 
streets are lighted with gas. His stables contain 300 
horses. We saw no superior animals, nor anything 
worthy of a visit, although a Gusher had spoken 
highly of the place. The four ankles of the animals 
are separately tied, allowing but a few feet of liberty. 

Amber (or Anibar) is a suburb of Jeypore. A 
ride of an hour takes you through several miles of 
cacti to the foot of a hill. There you mount an 
elephant and he climbs up and paces down grade for 
forty minutes more. You go through old gateways, 
past walls which zig-zag the mountain for miles, 
through a village which was centuries ago a town 
enter the stony remnants of old fortifications and at 
last reach a deserted palace. There is a fine garden. 
We noticed some pomegranates encased in earthen 
jars exactly like those our children use for penny, 
deposit banks. These jars, however, are so divided 



AROUND THE WORLD 171 

that they can be opened and again tied together. 
The object is to protect the ripening fruit from the 
birds. 

There are the usual halls of audience. One of those 
at Amber has a more beautiful ceiling than its 
counterparts at Delhi or Agra. The Maharajah's 
sanctum is lined with little mirrors, reflecting a hun- 
dred heads and hands for each reality. Last of all, sad- 
dest of all, there was the room of sacrifice to Kale, the 
Goddess of Destruction. It is a marble chamber 
about twenty feet deep, and forty feet wide. There 
are two small pictures of this Destroyer. Three 
arches represent places of invocation and a hole 
covered with ashes is the spot where for years a 
human being was offered every day. When it was 
feared that the population could hardly stand this, 
a bullock was sacrificed. As these animals became 
scarce a goat was substituted. And so it remains. 

You meet many peacocks and monkeys enjoying 
their wild liberty, and as the night closes 'round 
thousands of crows w r ildly wend their way through 
the air seeking shelter in the trees, always preferring 
the leafless branches. 

Why did the Maharajah in the years gone by for- 
sake the beautiful palace we visited and build him- 
self another, almost at the side of the deserted 
castle? This was the cmestion we put to the guide. 
The answer was suggestive. He said, "simply be- 



112 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

cause they believe that it is not good luck to live in 
the same place more than 500 years." 

This ruler we are told has no children. He had 
two daughters, but they died. 

The weather remains cold (January). Fires in 
bed-rooms and overcoat outside save in the glare of 
the sun. The thick walls and absence of light give 
the chambers the appearance of dungeons. High up, 
nine or ten feet above the floor is a sort of transom 
sash admitting but a modicum of illumination. Fre- 
quently during the day a light is needed to read or 
write. Rooms constructed for the fierce heats of sum- 
mer are rather cheerless when the thermometer is 
below 60. 

Bombay is by rail 699 miles (thirty-three hours) 
from Jeypore. The journey requires two nights, with 
the usual trouble about refreshments. Hurried 
meals and ignorant servants. This trip across India 
via Benares, Lucknow, Cawnpore, Agra, Delhi, and 
Jeypore is about 1895 miles. The straight line 
would be about 1400 miles. Bombay is warm, the 
latitude being eighteen degrees north. Philadelphia 
time, twelve o'clock noon — here, ten P. M. The 
city is located on the sea. In the harbor are many 
vessels, some of them ships of war. The islands 
make a handsome picture. 

The Island of Bombay was given to the English 



174: FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 

crown in 1661 by Portugal as part of the dowry of 
Catharine of Braganza, but it was not delivered by 
the Portuguese until 1665. 

In 1668 Charles II sold all his rights in Bombay 
to the East India Company for the magnificent sum 
of £10 per annum! 

The present city was then only an unhealthy 
fishing village, but being on an island it was safe 
from the cavalry of Mahratta. As Surat had been 
raided a few years before, the Western Presidency 
was withdrawn from Surat and located at Bombay 
in 1687. The population was then about 10,000. 
It is now above 800,000; over one-half are Hindoos; 
the Mohammedans number 200,000, the Parsees 
50,000, the Europeans only about 12,000. 

There is a large commingling of many races. 
The trade has swollen to 160,000,000 sterling an- 
nually. Over one-half of this passes through the 
Suez Canal. 

The city boasts of many superb buildings. The 
Victoria Terminus is one of the finest in the world. 
It is of the Italian Gothic style with a front of over 
1500 feet. The walls and roof of the interior are 
decorated with blue and gold. The Administrative 
office building occupies three sides of a square with 
a fine garden. A high tower rises over the centre 
surmounted by a figure representing Progress. A 
statue of the Empress-Queen is in front of the 
building. 



176 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

The Royal Alfred Sailors' Home is well 
worthy of notice. I have not the means of com- 
paring it with the Home at Liverpool, but both are 
splendid institutions. The Bombay building seems 
to be the larger of the two. It is a beautiful struc- 
ture and was completed in 1876. Its object is to 
secure a shelter for sailors. Here they are safe from 
the boarding house plunderers. The cost to each 
sailor is only one rupee (about twenty-five cents) a 
day. Officers pay thirty-eight cents a day. The lot- 
is about three acres; thebuilding is fire-proof through- 
out. There is a fine library and reading room. 
Boards for draughts and chess are supplied. There 
are dining rooms, bath-rooms and every comfort. 
The establishment can accommodate five hundred. 
The ship-wrecked and distressed are entertained 
free of charge. 

The Caves of Elephanta are lauded by travel- 
lers as objects of special attraction. They are not 
worth the trouble and expense of a visit. They are 
on an island sometimes called Gharapuri (the hill 
of Purification) and again Garrapuri (the city of 
Excavations). Years ago a stone elephant stood on 
a hill near by, and the Portuguese called the island 
Elaphanta. The statue has long since been removed 
and is now in the A'ictoria Gardens. The island is 
about seven miles from Bombav. A little steamer 



AROUND THE WORLD 



177 



carries you there in 
about an hour. You 
must, however, get into 
a small boat and be 
rocked and wet and 
rowed some five min- 
utes to a curious land- 
ing, composed of con- 
crete blocks extending 
far out into the bay. 
Mounting on these a 
walk of five minutes 
takes you to a fearful 
succession of stone steps 
leading considerably 
over a quarter of a mile 
up an ascent of over one 
hundred and fifty feet. 
Here you must pay 
another fee to enter the 
sacred ground. A few- 
feet bring you to a hall 
cut out of the black 
rock, some say 133 feet 
by 130 feet. Others say 
ninety feet square. It 
rests on pillars from 
fifteen to seventeen feet 
in height. Instead of 




A HINDOO BRAHMIN GI RL. 



178 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

being of considerable elegance, they are without a 
particle of attraction. There is a three-headed 
figure on the wall, said to represent Shiv in the 
character of Brahma — Shiv as Rudra the destroyer. 
This is embellished with a swelling above the nose, 
said to represent a third eye. And the third face is 
called Shiv in the character of Vishna, the pre- 
server. Cobras and a human skull are cut. It is 
stated that "the royal tiara is most beautifully 
carved," and that the "face has a stern, command- 
ing Roman expression." But this is all imagina- 
tion. There is nothing beautiful or commanding 
about any of the figures. An apartment to the left 
and a chamber on the other side contain equally 
hideous carvings, all without a particle of symmetry 
or attraction. It is said that these were cut 1200 
years ago. This is probably the only truth stated 
by guide books and frothy writers. 

The view of the city and the bay was the only 
return for an afternoon lost and five rupees spent. 

The Towers of Silence are also represented as 
an attraction. The drive occupies an hour. On 
Malabar Hill you have a splendid view of Bombay 
and the sea. This is all of your return. You enter 
gates, climb a hill and are received by a Parsee into 
a large area, said to be of 75,000 square yards. 
There is nothing wonderful here. A small stone 



AROUND THE WORLD 



179 



building is used for prayer and service over the 
dead; it can not be called a burial "service. Then 
there are five structures called towers but they are 
not towers in any proper sense of the word. They 
are square, ugly-looking affairs about twenty-five 
feet in height, with an entrance at the end of an 




LUCKNOW— THE MARTINIERE. 

elevated road, about half way to the top. It is said 
that the dead are carried inside and placed in rows. 
In every building there are 216 ledges in three 
circles of seventy-two each, all side by side, not one 
above the other. Seventy-two are for male adults, 
these are in the circle next to the walls, sevent}^-two 



180 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

for female adults in the second circle, and seventy- 
two for children in the centre circle. The five 
towers can therefore accommodate 1080 bodies. In 
the centre of each is a well. The bodies are left 
exposed; the vultures strip them of their flesh 
and then the bones are thrown into the well. One 
is shown a wooden model of a single building and 
then he goes away slightly nauseated. We were 
told that two bodies had been carried into the 
building pointed out to us a few hours before. On 
the top were half a do/en vultures. Imagination 
supplied the horrid, disgusting, cruel blank. 

The public buildings speak well for English taste 
and enterprise. The University Hall, the Yacht 
Club, the Schools, Police Courts, Post Office and the 
Secretariat are all structures of which any city 
might be proud. 

Pinjraroot is the name of a new market in which 
are hospital enclosures for lame and sick animals, 
who are fed and tenderly cared for. The Hindoo 
deserves all praise for his mercy to beasts. Lame 
bullocks, wounded cows, homeless dogs, and even 
sick pigeons, find a refuge here. 

A large proportion of the colored population in 
Bombay are Parsees. They seem to be wealthy, 
enterprising and benevolent citizens. Their schools 



AROUND THE WORLD 



181 



merit high commendation. Their dress is European 
with the exception of the Persian hat. 

The poverty of the lower classes, and the climate, 





A PARSEE PRIEST. 



account for the number of bare feet and bare legs 
seen amongst the Hindoos. Of the men, it seemed 
to me, 90 per cent, were more or less naked from 
the hips down. One third of these denuded males 



181 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 



wear nothing below the thighs. Some of them 
have only a girdle. A large number however wear 
a sort of a petticoat or apron which comes below the 




A PARSEE LADY. 



knee, but is then turned backwards to the waist be- 
hind. This arrangement covers the greater part of 
the limbs in front, but leaves the rear of the legs 



AROUND THE WORLD 183 

almost entirely nude. The women are, as a general 
thing, all covered, a large percentage however have 




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A BRAHMIN WOMAN. 



bare feet and many of them sport rings on their toes. 
Some of the sex are more exposed. When one is 
12 



184 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

walking through a narrow and crowded thorough- 
fare swarming with these brown skins, some in 
part unclothed, others shining in brilliant colors, 
it is a picture which pen can hardly paint and 
which reminds you of a kaleidoscope. 

The weather here in January is delightful. Open 
doors and windows, with fine sea breezes. It seems 
a happy escape from the fierce storms and biting 
cold, the sneezing, wheezing, and coughing of 
Philadelphia. 

The curious names seen on signs, and on the 
street corners, are illustrated by a few specimens : 

Sabapathy Moodeliar & Co., Bank St. 

Shagwan Dass Hurjeevan ct Co., Custom House 
Road. 

B. W. Pathuck, Tamarind Lane. 

Cowasjee Brother, Cowasjee Patel St. 

Cursetjee Muncherjee Bhesenia & Co., Hornby Rd. 

Currimbhoy Ebrahim & Co., Khoja Mohulla. 

Dinthaw D. Curranee & Co., Cowesjee Patel St. 

Dorabjee Shapoorjee & Co., Elphintstone Circle. 

Hamshedjee Nusserwanjee Tata, Paree Mazaar St. 

Merwanjee Nusserwanjee Sons & Co., Medows St. 

Mooljee Jaitha & Co., Tamarind Lane. 

Muncherjee Nowrojee Banajee & Co., Hornby Rd. 

Mansukhlall, Demodar ife Jumsetjee, Medows St. 

Nusserwanjee Bomanjee Mody & Co., Hornby Rd. 

Nanabhoy B. Jajeebhoy & Co., Hornby Rd. 



AROUND THE WORLD 185 

N. S. Pochajee & Co., Custom House Rd. 
N. V. Curranee & Co., Custom House Rd. 
Pestanjee, Rustim & Kola, Medows St. 
Purshotam Bandoojee & Co., Medows St. 
R. Ranchandra & Co., Forbes St. 
Ruttonsey, Denso &, Co., Elphinstone Circle. 
Sorabjee Shapoorjee & Co., Medows St. 
Sorabshah & Co., Medows St. 
Tata & Sons, Parsee Bazaar St. 
Tanidass Vurjdass & Co., Dalai St. 
Thakurdaas Dharamsi & Co., Esplanado Rd. 
Tbarie Topuu, Samuel St. 
Tyabjee & Co., Humnum St. 
Visram Ebrahim & Co., Samuel St. 

The Cyclones. — In the Autumn terrible storms 
have been known to inflict fearful disasters. All the- 
Eastern shore of India is exposed to these visita- 
tions. A history of them has been given by Mr. 
Lanier in his excellent work, " Asia." He describes 
the storm of October 31, 1876, as destroying in one 
hour and without warning, 215,000 lives, each city 
losing 70 per cent, of its population. This was fol- 
lowed by the cholera. 



186 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 




HOMEWARD BOUND. 

^B| FTER enduring the inconveniences of 
'ffnl^ a journey across India, the rest and 
comforts of Bombay produced a 
regret when the hour of departure 
arrived. The Peninsular and 
Oriental Company's steamers fur- 
nish every luxury. This com- 
pany has been in existence fifty- 
four years, having been incorpo- 
rated by Royal Charter, December 
31, 1840. Its authorized capital 
is £3,500,000, of which there has been issued 
and paid up, £2,320,000. It owns a fleet of fifty- 
one ships, and has now in course of construc- 
tion seven more vessels. Besides these there are 
twenty-three tugs and launches, making a total 
tonnage of 259,593 tons, with 243,545 effective horse 
power. Its management is composed of the best 
men, and the results are most gratifying. The re- 
ceipts for 1894 were over £2,300,000, on which divi- 
dends equal to 5 per cent, on the preferred, and 10 
per cent, on the deferred stock were distributed. 
The coal preferred is the Welsh. Its average cost, 



AROUND THE WORLD 187 

the year round, counting freight, etc., is from 
twenty to twenty-five shilling a ton. The Peninsu- 
lar burns about sixty-five tons a day. The largest 
boat, "The Caledonian," consumes eighty tons a 
day. These boats pay tolls on the Suez canal, at the 
rate of eight francs a ton, and twenty-five francs a 
head. This company paid to the Suez Company in 
1894, over a million of dollars. From Bombay to 
Aden is 1660 miles. The voyage took four days 
and thirteen hours. Aden is a coaling port at the 
southwest corner of Arabia. The mountains rise 
all round it very abruptly and the summits are bare 
and rugged. It is said that the rain only falls once 
in three years. Here the old Romans had a settle- 
ment and traces of their civilization still exist. 
The Gulf of Aden leads to the straits of Babel-men- 
deb. This is Arabic, it seems, for the "Gate of 
Weeping." It is the entrance to the Red Sea, 
abounding in shoals. The navigation was so dis- 
astrous that the ancients gave to the entrance this 
poetical name. The Strait is only about one mile 
in width. To the left on an eminence stands Perim, 
also controlled by the British. Marvelous and far- 
reaching power! Away from the breezes, the air is 
very hot. Awnings on deck and punkas in the 
cabin keep one happy. The Lascars compose the 
working crews of these vessels. They are inhabi- 
tants of India, to the south of Bombay, are very 



188 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

dark, generally wear beards, always have red tur- 
bans and look very savage. They are described as 
teachable, but the slowness with which they got a 
boat uncovered and swung it to the side, seemed 
almost comical. Instead of compelling them to 
learn English, the poor officers are forced to learn 
the dialect of their seamen. When I asked why 
ordinary Hindoos were not hired, the captain told 
me they would lose caste if they came to sea. The 
first-class fare from Bombay to Brindisi is $175. 
From Brindisi to London, including sleeping car, is 
$74. As this latter takes only two clays, it seems to 
be the highest rate known. 

The distances are: 

Bombay to Aden . . . 1660 Miles. 

Aden to Ismailia . . . 1356 " 

Ismalia to Port Said . . . 43 " 

Port Said to Brindisi . . 930 " 

3989 " 
Brindisi to London (by rail and 

channel boat) . . . 1450 " 

5439 " 

Suez. — On the fourth day you reach Suez, 1309 
miles from Aden. In the Bay you pass Sinai, and 
further on, one of the places assigned by tradition as 
the crossing of the Israelites. Still another spot is 
fixed for this great miracle up near Bitter Lake, in- 



AROUND THE WORLD 189 

side of the canal. Suez, once a great place for trade, 
has of course lost its importance since the construc- 
tion of the canal. Great credit is due to de Lesseps 
and his associates for their courage and perseverance 
in this behalf. But the truth is, that a canal ex- 
isted as far back as the reign of Pharaoh Necho, 
and the five lakes which form part of the passage 
reduced the prestige of a work at- most but ninety- 
eight miles in extent. Lord Palmerston was at heart 
against the enterprise; he wisely feared political com- 
plications. But though liberal in profession he was 
ever asking, what is the use? and how can this be 
avoided ? In this spirit he commissioned two eminent 
engineers to examine the whole scheme. They em- 
balmed themselves in history by a report that the 
canal was impracticable and that the Mediterranean 
was two feet and some inches above the Red Sea, a de- 
duction absolutely negatived by the fact. The canal 
was finished in 1868 despite these prophecies. Years 
afterwards DTsraeli, acting under the interested but 
able advice of Rothschild secured a grand result for 
Great Britain by purchasing the stock at 80. These 
and many other interesting items were given to me 
by Captain Briscoe, of "The Peninsular," who many 
years ago showed his faith in the enterprise by in- 
vesting his savings in the stock when low down at 
20. The result has proved his sagacity to be superior 
to English statesmen and engineers, for the shares 



90 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

now command, he says, 120. The entrance of the 
canal, called Port Tewfik, two and a half miles 
from Suez, is marked b}* two buoys and the whole 
channel is staked. At night it is all lighted. The 
only place of interest in the neighborhood is in Asia, 
about two miles from Suez. It is called "The Wells 
of Moses," and is reached by crossing the canal and 
by a ride on a donkey. On either side Arabia and 
Egypt vie in their display of long, low stretches of 
desert. Here and there is a village, or a camp of 
Arabs and camels. Occasionally there is a pretty 
station with a palm tree, the rest is a desolation, 
marked only by buoys, little gas tanks to illuminate 
the channel; men and camels engaged in cutting off 
corners and small posts marking the miles and tenths 
of miles. Vessels may follow; two are astern as I 
write, but passing abreast, both in motion is not al- 
lowed. One ship must tie up. The channel is very 
narrow, in places not over 150 feet in width and is 
shallow. At the sides of the passage a few feet of 
water cover shoals visible to the eye and the banks 
are lined with stone walls and little palisades to pro- 
tect from the wash. Dredgers are also employed. 
The time usually consumed in passing from Suez to 
Port Said is fifteen hours. Of course an accident 
may obstruct commerce for some time. A passenger 
told me that he had been delayed here four days. 



AROUND THE WORLD 191 

Ismailia is on Lake Timsah half way between 
Suez and Port Said. Travellers can land at Suez, 
and take the rail to Ismailia (three hours) and thence 
to Cairo about four hours. Or as the time table may 
require, they can leave the boat at Ismailia. The 
majority prefer this plan. The rail also runs to 
Alexandria, three hours to Cairo by the fast line. 

Port Said is about seven hours by boat from Is- 
mailia. It is the northern terminus of the canal 
and its little area is owned in strips by several sov- 
ereignties. It is remarkable only for its splendid 
breakwaters and its vices. 

Caxdia. — On the second day from Port Said we 
passed a little to the south of Canclia (Crete). This 
beautiful island is 160 miles long and for several 
hours we looked with admiration on its high moun- 
tains covered with snow. The light of the setting 
sun made them the handsomest object seen in a very 
long voyage. Here Paul sailed and crossed to the 
little Island of Claudia. 

Zaxte. — Remarkable for currants and earth- 
quakes. Cephalonia and other islands were passed 
on the third day from Port Said. We are due this 
midnight at Brindisi, nearly thirteen days from 
Bombay. All over these routes the stoppages seem 
timed for unwelcome hours. Those who land and 



192 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 

those who remain are alike tortured by these un- 
timely arrivals. 

From Brindisi to London the overland mail takes 
about fiftv hours. 



HISTORIC SKETCH OF THE ANGLO-INDIAN 
EMPIRE. 

The effective control of a domain of vast terri- 
torial extent, containing a population of over 200 
millions, perhaps a full sixth of that of the entire 
globe, by a people utterly inferior in point of num- 
bers, and whose seat is at the remote Antipodes, is a 
phenomenon which, both in its historic and sociologi- 
cal aspects, is singular and striking. Apart from its 
political significance, the growing importance of 
British India as a factor in the world's affairs and 
its increasing influence on economic conditions in 
this country, will make a brief review of the devel- 
opment of British rule in India of interest to 
every American reader. The following historic 
sketch has accordingly been condensed for these 
pages from the lucid recital, by W. W. Hunter, in 
his " Brief History of the Indian People." 

The first territorial possession of the English on 
the mainland of the Indian peninsula was Fort St. 



AKOUND THE WORLD 193 

George, now Madras, founded by Francis Day in 
1639. The French settlement of Pondicherri, about 
one hundred miles farther down the east or Coro- 
mandel coast, was established in 1674, and for about 
seventy years the two races lived and traded peace- 
ably together. The war between England and 
France in 1744 broke this long peace. Dupleix, 
one of the ablest Frenchmen of his time was 
Governor of Pondicherri. The other great actor in 
Indian history, Clive, the Englishman, was then in 
a business office, at Madras. An English fleet first 
put in an appearance, but Dupleix by skillful 
diplomacy induced the native prince, the Nawab of 
Arcot, to prevent hostilities. In 1746 a French 
fleet appeared and Madras surrendered almost with- 
out a blow, leaving Fort St. David, some miles 
south of Pondicherri, the only fort held by the 
English race in India. Here Clive and a few other 
fugitives sought shelter. The Nawab, endeavoring 
to be entirely impartial sought to drive out the 
French but was defeated. In 1768 an English fleet 
under Boscawen laid siege to Pondicherri aided by 
an army under Lawrence, but unsuccessfully. The 
treaty of Aix-la-Chappelle, however, restored 
Madras to the English. 

The second war between the French and English 
in India had no reference to European complica- 
tions. Disputed successions among the native 



194 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

princes gave Dupleix the chance of becoming- 
arbiter, who by this means hoped to erect a great 
French empire in India. Had Dupleix been as 
great in the field as he was able and bold in 
diplomacy history for the 200,000,000 of India 
would have been different. It was, however, the 
good fortune of the English to have a series of able 
soldiers, the chief of whom was Lord Clive. The 
capture and defence of Arcot by Clive in 1751, the 
battle of Wandewash, won by Sir Eyre Coote in 
1760 and the capture of Pondicherri by the same 
soldier in 1761 ended forever the dream of Dupleix 
of founding an empire in India. This was the close 
of the war between the English and French in India, 
brought about by their support of rival candidates 
for the throne of Arcot. The next steps for the 
foundation of English supremacy were taken against 
the native princes, the scene shifting with Clive to 
Bengal, the northern part of India. 

The war in Bengal, of which the famous battle of 
IMassey (1757) was the turning point, began like 
the war of 1746, in the fact of the French and English 
being at war with each other in Europe. Clive 
captured the French settlement of Chandarnagar on 
the Hoogli River, near Calcutta. This was within 
the domains of the Navvab of Bengal, Surajah Daw- 
lah, the man responsible for the "Black Hole" epi- 
sode of Calcutta, in 1756. Outraged at this violation 



AROUND THE WORLD 195 

of neutrality the Nawab sided with the French. 
Clive marched to the grove of Plassey, seventy 
miles from Calcutta, with a force of 1000 Europeans, 
2000 Sepoys and eight pieces of artillery. The 
Nawab is said to have had 35,000 foot, 15,000 
cavalry and fifty guns. He attacked with his whole 
artillery at six in the morning. Clive, knowing his 
inferiority in this respect kept his men well sheltered 
"in a grove, surrounded with good mud banks." At 
noon, the Nawab's men drew off for dinner, feeling, 
no doubt, perfectly safe in their vast superiority of 
numbers and equipment. Whilst at dinner, Clive 
attacked one of their outposts, and stormed "an 
angle of the camp." Several leading officers of the 
Nawab fell and the latter, surprised at the confusion, 
fled, his troops flying in panic. Clive, no doubt, as 
much surprised as any, found himself winner of a 
great victory, and the British Empire in India was 
born. This day was June 23, 1757, an anniversary 
celebrated 100 years later by the blood and terror ot 
the revolt of the Sepoys in 1857. 

In 1758, Clive was appointed by the East India 
Company the first governor of all its settlements in 
Bengal. Though Plassey is generally deemed to 
have given birth to the Indian Empire, yet years of 
toil and bloodshed were yet to come before it should 
be firmly founded. Indeed, it may be said, not to 
have been absolutely entrenched until after the Se- 



196 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

poy mutiny of 1857. Clive found two wars threat- 
ened immediatly upon his accession to the governor- 
ship, one by the Shahzada, or, as he was called after- 
wards, the Emperor Shah Alain, the other by the 
French at Madras. The former leading an army of 
Afghans and Mahrattas, and supported by the 
Nawab of Oudh, asserted his claim, as Emperor, to 
the province of Bengal and laid siege to Patna, an 
important post about 600 miles northwest of Cal- 
cutta. Clive marched in person to the rescue, with 
the ridiculously small force of 450 Europeans and 
2500 Sepoys ; yet so great was the terror of his very 
name that the Mogul army dispersed without waiting 
to be attacked. In the south, Colonel Forde recaptured 
Masilupatam from the French, and permantly estab- 
lished English authority at Hyderabad and through 
the northern Circars. Clive in person attacked the 
Dutch and defeated them, both on land and sea, and 
rendered them utterly unable to rival the English, 
to aid the French, or even hold their own settle- 
ments, or anything else than the sufferance of the 
victors. 

From 1760 to 1765 Clive was in England and a 
war sprung up in his absence. Mir Jafar, whom 
the English had just put as their puppet upon the 
viceregal throne of Murshidabad to succeed the 
Siraj-ud-Daula (or Surajah Dowlah), after the 
defeat of the latter at Plassey, as already described, 



AROUND THE WORLD 197 

was displaced and Mir Kasim, his son-in-law, was 
seated in his throne. The latter proceeded to in- 
trigue with the Nawab of Oudh, already mentioned, 
and to organize a force on the English model, with 
the hope of trying conclusions with the latter. A 
quarrel over the inland duties in Bengal afforded 
the excuse, the natives refusing to pay to the Na- 
wab's officers on the ground that they (the natives) 
were acting for the English company. The Na- 
wab's men massacred 2000 Sepoys at Patna and 
some hundreds of Europeans who fell into their 
hands there and in other parts of the province. In 
pitched battles, however, Mir Kasim's trained regi- 
ments were utterly defeated by Major Adams at 
Gheriah and Udha-nala and the leader took refuge 
with the Nawab of Oudh. To add to the difficulties 
of the English, the first Sepoy mutiny broke out in 
their camp. It was quelled by Sir Hector Munro 
and twenty-four ringleaders were blown from the 
mouths of cannon, this being an old Mogul form of 
punishment. The war ended by Sir Hector's decis- 
ive victory at Baxar in 1764, which laid Oudh at 
the feet of the English and brought the Mogul Em- 
peror, himself, Shah Alam (already mentioned as 
the prince Shahzada) a suppliant to the camp of the 
conquerors. 

In 1765 Clive returned to India as Governor of 
Bengal. He restored Oudh to the Nawab for halt 



198 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 

a million sterling, toward war expenses. A puppet 
was maintained at Murshidabad and the fiscal ad- 
ministration only of Bengal, Behar and Orissa, as 
well as the territorial jurisdiction of the Northern 
Circars was given to the East Indian Company. A 
task much greater for dive, however, was the re-or- 
ganization of the Civil Service of the company. 
This was brought about by an increase in salaries 
and a prohibition to all officers from engaging in 
private trade and from receiving presents (that is, 
bids) from the native powers. Clive returned to 
England finally in 1767. 

The great famine of 1770, in which it is said that 
one third of the people of India perished, was the 
only great event between this date and the governor- 
ship of the famous Warren Hastings, beginning in 
1772. Clive's double system of control already 
adverted to was shown to be a failure. The puppet 
Nawab of Murshidabad had received an allowance 
from the English of 600,000 pounds sterling, when 
first appointed by Clive. The latter before leaving 
India had himself cut this enormous sum down to 
450,000 pounds, in 1766, on the accession of a new 
Nawab, and to 350,000 pounds on a fresh succession 
in 1769. Six months before Clive became governor, 
the Court of Directors of the East India Company 
had ordered the sum cut down about one-half, or to 
about 160,000 pounds. Hastings carried this order 



AROUND THE WORLD 199 

out, though in his famous trial before the English 
Parliament, this was charged against him, as an act 
of oppression and of treaty breaking as to the 
Nawab. Another act of Hastings was the sale of 
Allahabad and Kora to the Wazir of Oudh. 

The provinces had been assigned to the Emperor 
Shah Alam, already mentioned together with a 
tribute of 300,000 pounds sterling in return for the 
grant of Bengal to the English. Shortly after this 
grant the Marhattas, a warlike northern race, had 
attacked the Emperor and seized his person. Hast- 
ings held that this destroyed the Emperor's inde- 
pendence and that it would be folly to continue pay- 
ing tribute to have it fall into the hands of the Mar- 
hattas, thus strengthening their hands against the 
time when the English should have to fight them. 
He therefore withheld the tribute. He also resold 
Allahabad and Kora to the Wazir of Oudh for half 
a million sterling and at the same time freed the 
company of a military burden of nearly as much 
more, making a saving in Indian finances of nearly 
five million dollars per annum. Chait Sinh, the 
Rajah of Benares, revolted, and his estates were for- 
feited ; the Begum, or Queen Mother of Oudh, on a 
charge of abetting him was also fined to the extent 
of one million sterling. Hastings' trial before the 
Lords for these and other acts of oppression lasting 
13 



200 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 

from 1788 to 1795, was one of the greatest state 
trials of history. 

It resulted in his acquittal but left him ruined. 
The excuse offered for Warren Hastings' course was 
that he had to fight for life against princes who broke 
faith with him and that he used his power more 
mercifully than any Mogul Viceroy would have 
done. That he was the greatest man that ever ruled 
India is now universally admitted. 

The Marhatta war of 1778-1781 was signalized 
by brave acts, but beyond this seems to have been 
entirely fruitless. The war with Hyder Ali, of 
Mysore and the Nizam of the Deccan, the two 
strongest Mohammedan powers in India, was almost 
disastrous to the English. Hyder cut several English 
forces to pieces and ravaged the Karnatic, an English 
province, so that it was said not a living thing re- 
mained in it. Hyder was an able soldier and, 
when he died in 1782, peace was concluded with 
his son by mutual restitution of all conquests. 

Lord Cornwallis was twice governor general, first 
from 1786 to 1793 and again in 1805. He im- 
proved and built upon the foundations of civil 
administration laid by Hastings, first gave criminal 
jurisdiction to Europeans and carried into execution 
the permanent settlement of the land tax for Ben- 
gal. In the second Mysore war with Tipu Sultan, 
son of Hyder Ali (1790-1792), Lord Cornwallis led 



AROUND THE WORLD 201 

in person, conquering from the enemy one-half of 
his possessions and exacting tribute of three mil- 
lions sterling. 

Sir John Shore (afterward Lord Teignmouth) was 
governor-general from 1793 to 1798, and was suc- 
ceeded by Lord Mornington, better known as the 
Marquis of Wellesley. He is credited with laying 
down the Imperial policy of India, viz : that Eng- 
land should be the one paramount power and that 
native princes should only be permitted to reign by 
surrendering their political independence. The 
logical and final result of this was the proclamation 
of Victoria as Empress of India, on January 1, 1877. 
Wellesly bought the Doab, a fertile province, from 
the Nawab Wazir of Oudh in consideration of the 
unpaid balance of subsidies owed by the latter to the 
English. He entered into treaty with the Nizam 
of Hyderabad and without bloodshed turned him 
into an ally. He also made him promise to employ 
no Europeans without English consent, a provision 
aimed to destroy the French influence at the 
Nizam's Court. Tippoo, the Sultan of Mysore, had 
intrigued with the French and war was declared 
against him. As became a soldier and a king he 
died in the trench at the storming of Seringapatam, 
1799. His estates were divided between the Eng- 
lish, their native allies' and an infant Hindu prince 
whose ancestors had been robbed by Tippoo's father. 



202 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

the Great Hycler Ali. Tippoo's sons were treated 
with the greatest kindness, and the last of his 
descendants died, a magistrate at Calcutta, in 1877. 
After this the English devoted their attention to the 
loose Marhatta Confederacy, the third power of 
Southern India. The second Marhatta War (1802- 
1803) followed, said to be the most glorious chapter 
in the English Wars in India, though there were 
some disasters, as in the first war with Hyder Ali in 
Mysore. In Northwestern India, Lord Lake's cam- 
paigns brought the northwest provinces under 
English rule together with the old Emperor, the 
puppet successor of the Great Mogul. This office of 
Emperor actually maintained a shadowy existence 
at Delhi till 1857, the Sepoy revolt. 

In 1805 Lord Corn wal lis was again sent to India, 
but died at Ghazipur before having been ten weeks 
in the country. Sir George Barlow succeeded dur- 
ing a few months. During his term another mutiny 
of Sepoys occurred at Vellore (1806). It was brief 
and promptly suppressed but sent a feeling of 
insecurity through the empire. Lord Minto, 
governor-general from 1807 to 1813, was dis- 
tinguished by few military operations, though the 
governor managed to consolidate Wellesley's con- 
quests and keep the peace without sacrificing 
English prestige. 

The successor of Lord Minto was the Earl of 



AROUND THE WORLD 203 

Moira, better known as Marquis of Hastings (1814- 
1823). Two wars of the first magnitude and the 
suppression of the free-booting Pindaris, in Central 
India, characterize this period. The first war was 
with the hardy little Goorkhas, in Nepaul, in 1814- 
15, in which the English, at first fairly beaten, 
finally succeeded in obtaining their own terms. 
The other was with the Marhattas and resulted in 
the final subjection of these war-like people, and the 
giving of orderly and good government to their 
wretched retainers. The war against the Pindaris 
was of an altogether different character. These 
people were not a race like the Marhattas nor were 
they bound together by purely religious ties, as the 
Sikhs. They were merely plundering bands, like 
the free companies of mediaeval Europe, with no 
community of race or religious sentiment. They 
preyed over much of Central India from Madras to 
Bombay and one of their chiefs had an organized 
army of many regiments and considerable artillery. 
Lord Hastings collected 120,000 men to operate 
against them and they were finally completely over- 
come. 

Lord Amherst ruled from 1823 to 1828 and had 
two wars to carry on, the first Burmese campaign 
and the capture of Bhurtpoor. The Burmese 
War (1824-26) was forced on the English by 
Burmese raids and the refusal of the raiders to con- 



204 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

sider any peaceful proposals. It cost the English 
the lives of 20,000 men and $70,000,000 and 
resulted in the cession of two provinces. Bhurtpoor 
was taken by Lord Combermere in 1827 by storm, 
though a similar attempt in 1805 had resulted 
disastrously to the English. 

Lord William Bentinck, a descendant of the fam- 
ous Bentinck, Duke of Portland, the friend and 
counsellor of William of Orange, was governor from 
1828 to 1835. But little war characterized his ad- 
ministration ; but it is to his imperishable glory 
that during his rule Lord Bentinck began the course 
of administrative and other reform which have 
made modern India and its millions happier and 
better than ever in their history. He equalized 
taxes, encouraged educated natives to enter the ser- 
vice of the English, and abolished the burning of 
widows and the murders of the thugs. The burn- 
ing of widows, it was claimed, was in obedience to a 
text in the Vedic hymns, written in the tongue 
which is the common parent of Hindostanee, Greek, 
Latin, Lithuanian and English. But modern schol- 
arship had clearly shown that this use of the text 
was the result of a mistranslation. The result of 
this move on the part of the governor general has 
shed most distinguished honor on the English 
name. In 1834, the misrule of the Raja of Coorg 
brought on a short, sharp war, the natives wishing to 



AROUND THE WORLD 205 

be taken under English protection. This was done 
and the Rajah retired to Benares. This was the only 
annexation during Lord Bentinck's administration, 
and it was done "in consideration of the unanimous 
wish of the people." 

Sir Charles (afterward Lord) Metcalfe was gover- 
nor general in 1835-36. His administration was 
memorable for the bestowal of full liberty to the 
native press, a measure initiated by his predecessor. 

With Lord Metcalfe's successor, Lord Auckland 
(1836-42) begins another chapter of war, not always 
'honorable or creditable to England. The active 
interference in Afghan politics dates from Lord 
Auckland's sending an army to Kabul, the Afghan 
capital, to put Shah Shuja on the throne (1839). 
The English army remained for two years ; but in 
November, 1841, the English political agent, Sir 
Alexander Burnes, was assassinated, as was also 
Sir William Mcnaghten. After a delay of two 
months the British Army set out in midwinter to 
return to India. Of the 4000 fighting men and 
12,000 camp followers, just one man, Dr. Brydon, 
reached Jalalabad. A few prisoners were taken and 
well treated by orders of Akbar Khan, eldest son of 
Dost Mohammed, whom the English had dethroned 
to put up Shah Shuja. 

The garrison of Kandahar, the old capital of 
Afghanistan, abandoned that city and coming home 



206 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 

by way of Kabul, met there the army which had 
been sent to relieve Jalalabad but had gone as far as 
Kabul. The English contented themselves with 
blowing up the bazaar at Kabul and recovering the 
English prisoners and then returned to India, leav- 
ing Dost Mohammed on the throne where he was 
before their intervention. The withdrawal of the 
garrisons was the work of Lord Ellenborough, who 
succeeded Lord Auckland about a month after the 
news of the annihilation of the army retreating 
from Kabul reached Calcutta (1842). The conquest 
of the Ameers of Sindh, a most unjust war, and the 
war against Gwalior were the two other wars of Lord 
Ellenborough's career. 

Sir Henry Hardinge, a veteran of Napoleon's wars, 
who had lost a hand at Ligny just before Waterloo, 
succeeded Elenborough, governing from 1844 to 
1848. His administration was characterized by the 
conquest of the great Sikh nation, who, as already said, 
were a great religious sect, whose history, teachings, 
and unflinching courage were alike remarkable. The 
great Ranjit Sinh, founder of the political power of the 
Sikhs, had organized his fellows into regiments upon 
a religious basis, similar to that of Gustavus Adol- 
phus and Cromwell, and had extended his conquests 
far and wide over the extreme north of India. He was 
also strictly faithful to his word as given to the 
English. After Ranjit's death, however, a different 



AROUND THE WORLD 207 

state of things arose. In 1845 a Sikh army of 
60,000 men with 150 guns crossed the then bound- 
ary, the Sutlej river, and invaded India. Sir Hugh 
Gough, English commander, fought four desperate 
battles with them, with heavy loss. In the end, 
however, Lahore, the Sikh capital, was taken, Sir 
Henry Lawrence was sent there as resident, a por- 
tion of their territory annexed and a British garrison 
occupied the Punjab for eight years. 

The Earl of Dalhousie (1848-1856) is said to have 
left a greater impression upon India than any man 
since the days of Clive. Whilst it is true that he 
was compelled to fight with the Sikhs and Burmah 
and to annex large territories, his deepest concerns 
were for the material and moral welfare of the peo- 
ple. He it was who gave the first impetus to the 
network of railroads and canals w r hich, by making 
communication easy, has rendered famines almost 
impossible ; he it was who encouraged telegraphs 
and steamship lines and means of improvement- 
He had not been six months in India before the 
second Sikh war (1848-49) broke out. The English 
lost at the battle of Chilianwala 2400 men, four 
guns and three regimental colors, January 13, 
1849. Lord Gough, however, redeemed himself at 
Gujrat, where he entirely destroyed the Sikh force. 
The Punjab was annexed by proclamation of 29th 
of March, 1849. The Rajah, Dhulip Sinh, was 



208 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

given a pension of £58,000 and lived comfortably in 
England. 

The means taken to pacificate the country were 
so effective that the Sikhs were absolutely faithful 
to the English when half India was ablaze during 
the terrible mutiny soon to come. Taxes were 
reduced, equitable laws introduced and enforced, 
evenhanded justice meted out to the people and 
peace and prosperity followed. The second Burmese 
war, following the ill-treatment of some English 
merchants at Rangoon, resulted (1852) in the 
annexation of a large part of the valley of the 
Irawadi. Here, too, the effect of orderly govern- 
ment was soon seen. The trade of Rangoon 
increased four- fold in twenty-five } r ears and its pop-, 
ulation has been multiplied by ten since annexa- 
tion. Lord Dalhousie acted throughout on the 
theory that the good of the governed was the 
purpose of government; and in pursuance of this 
idea, whilst rigorously respecting the rights of 
reigning princes, invariably annexed possessions in 
which the incumbent had died leaving no natural 
heir. This was done, too, even in the cases in 
which the princes sought to over-reach the English 
by adopting heirs to the inheritances. Ouclh was 
also annexed in 1856, and the king was given an 
annual pension of $600,000. The orders to Sir 
James Outram, the resident, were to assume the 



AROUND THE WORLD 209 

administration, on the ground that " the British 
Government would be guilty in the sight of God 
and man if it were any longer to aid in sustaining 
by its countenance an administration fraught with 
suffering to millions;" this was in reference to the 
rule of the native prince whom the English thus 
finally displaced. The annexation was only decided 
upon after repeated warnings to the Nawabs, ex- 
tending over a long series of years, that they must 
govern justly and humanely or suffer the conse- 
quences. The irony of fate was such, however, that 
these very acts of humanity and amelioration were 
probably leading causes in the great revolt of the 
following year. 

The appointment of Earl Canning (1856-62) was 
soon followed by the terrible mutiny of 1857, the 
last great tragedy in the long, checkered, but in the 
main, highly honorable career of England in India. 
It seems singular, that even to this day, the exact 
cause of this great tradegy is not known. It is 
probable, as already remarked, that the spread of 
civilization and of Western reforms had the effect of 
alarming Hindoo public opinion and of conveying 
the impression that their nationalities and religions 
were in danger. The introduction of rifles into the 
army required the use of lubricated paper envelope 
cartridges, which, before being loaded, had to be bit- 
ten off on the end. The report that the lubricating 



210 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 

material was hog's lard, was the match that set fire 
to the magazine. On Sunday, May 10, 1857, the 
storm broke at Meerut, where the native troops cut 
down the English officers and all the Europeans 
they could find, and rushed off to the nearby town 
of Delhi, to put themselves under the authority of 
the old man who still claimed the shadowy title of 
Emperor of the Mogul Empire of India. The same 
terrible scenes, including also, in many cases, mas- 
sacres of English women and children, were enacted 
in many other places. The native armies of Madras 
and Bombay remained true to the English, and the 
Sikh population of the Punjab, recently conquered, 
poured out en masse to aid the English. 

Cawnpore, Lucknow and Delhi were the chief 
centres of interest. At the first named, the Eng- 
lish portion of the garrison after a desperate resist- 
ance of nineteen days under a tropical June sky, 
surrendered and were promised a safe conduct as 
far as Allahabad, down the Ganges. They had no 
sooner embarked than fire was opened on them and 
of 450, only four escaped (June 27, 1857). 125 
women and children who were left behind were 
massacred a few weeks later (July 15). At Lucknow, 
Sir Henry Lawrence had foreseen the storm and 
chosen his defences. The garrison held out under 
terrible hardships and against heavy odds from July 
2d to September 25, when relieved by Havelock 



AROUND THE WORLD 211 

and Outram. The combined force was besieged till 
November 16th, when finally relieved by Sir Colin 
Campbell (Lord Clyde). The garrison then retired 
to places where they were more urgently needed. 
Delhi was besieged by a force of 8000 Englishmen 
against 30,000 Sepoys, beginning on June 8th. In 
August, General Nicholson arrived with reinforce- 
ments from the Punjab, and after a desperate assault 
of six days, Delhi fell on September 20th. After 
this, the war decreased in interest, though it lasted 
in places for nearly two years longer. The war in 
Oudh was carried on by Sir Colin Campbell aided 
by Sir Jang Bahadur of Nepal at the head of the 
gallant little Gurkhas. Central India was reduced 
by Sir Hugh Rose (afterward Lord Strathnairn) and 
here some of the most tragic and romantic scenes 
were enacted. 

Here it was that the Princess of Jhansi died in 
battle at the head of her troops in June, 1858, and 
here it was that Sir Hugh put again in practice 
the old Mogul punishment of blowing insurgents 
from the mouths of cannon. Much hostile criticism 
has been directed against the English for these 
things; yet there is little doubt that such determined 
acts, such a utilization of native fears and super- 
stitions as was contained in these executions, served 
to bring the war to a close, to save much bloodshed 
and to give England a firmer grasp on her Indian 



212 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 

possessions. That she should ever give them up is 
not to be thought of, and that she may never do so 
is the devout wish of every one who realizes what 
blessings of peace, order and justice have resulted to 
those teeming millions from her rule. The end of 
the mutiny also marked the end of the East India 
Company, all of whose powers were transferred to 
the crown in 1858, after an existence of 258 years. 
Since the mutiny no internecine troubles of any 
consequence have occurred. Reforms have gone 
steadily forward and the conquerors have shown 
more than once their ability to cope with famine 
and to some extent with pestilence. During the 
viceroyalty of Lord Northbrook (1872-76) a famine 
which threatened Lower Bengal in 1874 was suc- 
cessfully averted. In 1878 the government despite 
tremendous efforts was not quite so successful. 
A general drought over most of the Empire 
caused crop failures, and over five millions perished. 
Much of this result is due to the peculiar habits of 
the people themselves. A large proportion of them 
will not eat flesh food. As they will not even slay 
animals, many forms of animal life are so plentiful 
that enormous quantities of food fit for human 
beings are destroyed in consequence. The natives 
are also so intensely conservative that they cannot 
be induced to leave over populated districts for 
localities where land can be had for the asking. 



AROUND THE WORJLD 213 

But with all these drawbacks, the population of 
India is increasing with strides so enormous that 
this, in turn, is becoming a great social question. 

In 1878 the affairs of Afghanistan forced them- 
selves to the attention of the English government. 
Shere Ali, the Ameer, was found to be favoring the 
Russians, whilst declining to receive an English en- 
voy. This lead to war. Three British armies en- 
tered the three great Himalayan passes and Shere 
Ali fled. His son, Yakub Khan, made a treaty, 
advancing the British boundaries and admitting an 
English envoy. Within a few months, this officer, 
Major Louis Cavagnari, was murdered and a second 
war promptly followed. Kabul and Kandahar were 
occupied and Yakub Khan was deported to India. 
A force sent into Afghanistan by Ayoub Khan was 
also brilliantly repulsed by Sir Frederick Roberts, 
September 1, 1880. Abdurrahman Khan was sub- 
sequently recognized as Ameer and is now on the 
throne. The British forces retired in March, 1881. 

The main features of the present condition of 
British India are its industrial and economic 
elements. The constant friction between the Hindoo 
and Mohammedan inhabitants is indeed a subject of 
more than passing significance, but though a deep- 
seated difficulty, it is manifestly under effective 
control. The economic disturbance caused by the 
depreciation of silver and the recent closing of the 



214 



FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 



Indian mints to the further coinage of that metal, 
and the agitation for its remonitzation constitute 
the leading factors in the existing status of East 
Indian affairs. 



FINIS. 




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